Trendstop London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024

London Fashion Week brings together some of the industry's most innovative talent with fearless design codes. The shows were sprawled across some of the city’s most iconic locations, such as Somerset House, the Strand, and Burberry’s unexpected demonstration at London Highbury Fields. A week that champions fresh talent, the distinct creativity of emerging designers continued to define the schedule. The blend of British classism with cutting-edge craft exemplifies London designers as experimental and diverse.

Eudon Choi

With a muse of French 19th-century impressionist painter Berthe Morisot, Eudon Choi presented loose-cut garments in flowing fabrics indicative of Morisot’s flowing style and muted palette. Clean cut tailoring, crafted elegant suiting and breezy dresses offered an easy versatility in cool toned colours. Soft silks and opaque fabrics portrayed the lightness and freedom that Morisot created for her women. The jackets, made of lightweight wool, emphasised the skilful tailoring behind the deceptively effortless collection. The show also debuted a fourth bag collaboration between Louis Quatorze.

Emilia Wickstead

Inspired by the creatively free men and women vacationing on the French Riveria, Emilia Wickstead celebrated the liberated silhouette of 1920s and 30s beachwear. The most striking aspect of the collection came as the color, with the bold and punchy palette acting as a tribute to under-acknowledged Cubist female artists. Eveningwear column gowns and slinky sailor suits were interwoven with boxy shirt and shorts combinations. The vintage influence extended into decorative beading details for dresses, tops, and miniskirts. The result was a wardrobe for the contemporary woman, free and glamorous but rooted in workaday practicality.

Molly Goddard

For her SS24 collection, Goddard’s interest in historical pieces led her to explore and expose the inner constructions of vintage bedding and undergarments. By revealing seams, zips, binding and boning, the deconstructed pieces demonstrated highly technical fabric skills, forming exaggerated silhouettes in nuanced textures. The inside-out effect created an explosion of frills underneath cotton canvas outer layers, and dresses left purposefully undone exposed seam stitch detailing. Rendered in vintage dusty lemon and lavender tones, blanket-style satin trimmed cardigans inspired by Victorian bedding were mirrored in bags designed to mimic pillows.

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