Trendstop Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at some of the highlights from the men’s edition of Spring/Summer 2024 Milan Fashion Week.

Conversations on masculinity took place across the Milan SS24 runways as designers explored and redefined traditional menswear codes. A fluid approach to gender saw feminine elements harmoniously fused into mannish constructions whilst a focus on nature and natural world inspirations allowed for a softening of motifs, prints and colors.

Prada

Questioning the conventions of structure in masculinity, the collection's title Fluid Form, resonated with a sentiment of new freedoms. Reconsidering the traditional suit, Prada addressed the theme by adorning white shirts with flower motifs. Floral appliques were continuous throughout and in its most extravagant form, 3D resin flowers extended across shirts. The color palette softened as the show evolved, transitioning from stark black to blush tones. Although silhouettes were classic menswear, the collection demonstrated how feminine and masculine design codes can coexist. This fluidity was echoed across bags, which were transformed into slouched and cushioned forms.

Dolce & Gabbana

In a show titled Stile, Dolce & Gabbana imbued enduring emblems of the label onto expertly tailored garments with a modern twist. Focus was on construction, with draped and manipulated t-shirts resembling ancient statues that transported viewers to a world where fashion and art intertwine. Sculpted flowers in various inflated proportions, were used to embellish clothing. Overcoats were crafted from double cashmere, suits came in Chantilly lace, and elements of embroidered silk organza. The focus on flower motifs re-established the classicality of romantic Italian glamour with a softened appeal, symbolic of both strength and fragility.

Andersson Bell

Making their Milan Fashion Week debut, Andersson Bell celebrates one decade in business with a show titled, The 10th Anniversary. Inspired by creative director Dohun Kim's Seoul-based teenage years in the 90s', the collection explores the contradictions of the era in a plethora of unexpected design combinations. Military styles dissolved into deconstructed denim, and every look demonstrated a unique half-and-half construction. A collection highlight was vase-shaped leather bags stuffed with flowers. With garments appropriating feminine elements, the show established a blended and more collective approach to menswear design.