Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at some of the highlights from Milan Spring/Summer 2024 Fashion Week.
Over the course of Milan Fashion Week, an array of heritage brands and new creative directors cultivated a parade of collections translatable to the many and varied demands of the contemporary wearer. The week provided an antidote to the fast fashion crisis. With a focus on technique, luxe fabrics, and traditional craftsmanship, designers leaned into the evolution of signature codes and recognisable shapes, whilst nodding to a new digital age. Supported by strong artistic direction, sound and setting, both delicate, hyper-feminine looks and sleek tailored silhouettes presented a unity across styling, form, and fabrication.
Blending cross-cultural inspirations and modes of dressing from around the globe, Bottega Veneta’s collection proposed a joyous new world uniform. Precisely cut leather in the form of slick ties and boxy shirts, demonstrated commercial looks executed with artisanal craftsmanship. Vibrant striped leather capes displayed functionality, offering protection from nature, but similarly, their knotted forms demonstrated premium fabric manipulation. An explosion of global influences brought complex colour palettes and textures with materials knitted by hand. Woven dresses played on proportion and silhouette, and abstract paintings accompanied expressive fringing. Classic Bottega bag silhouettes became oversized and appeared to mimic a woven banana leaf.
Harmonizing traditional craftsmanship and innovation for a new audience, Tod's Spring 24 collection referenced 90s minimalism whilst flaunting polished artisanal capabilities. Men's tailoring codes appeared in suiting references but were softened by a feminine flow in the form of draped blouses, drawn-in waistlines, and pleated skirts. Revising the pocketed leathermaker belt in a saddle-shaped style provided a utilitarian accent to looks and a reminder of the brand's heritage. The volume of the pieces emphasized the premium quality of supple Nappa leather, which complimented the neutral hues and burnt-toned colour palette. Shoes included lurid chartreuse mules, Gammino moccasins and a new, braided woven sandal.
In an interactive show where guests were given paddle boards to score each look, Sunnei’s designers took inspiration from Milanese culture, friends, workers, and digital identities. Silhouettes in each look demonstrated a variety of identities, showing form-fitting tops worn with exaggerated bottoms or blends of pale colours with vivid highlighter tones. Displaying digital and real-life consumer cultures, retro cut-out sports tops featured pixelated and striped graphics mixed with hand-dyed pieces. These mix and match combos were vividly explored using materials such as rubberized bottoms paired with breezy cotton tops, upcycled denim, and crystalized hearts on silk maxi dresses. The collection was complemented with playful accessories including puffed handbags with rubber braided straps, bulbous loafers, and platform sandals.
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