Zalando's premium buyer on sleek kicks, chaotic individualization and volatile weather

Fashion retailers are keeping a close watch on their sales leading to Christmas amid a sluggish consumer sentiment, at the same time many are already preparing for the AW25 buying season starting in January. What's going well at Zalando right now and what trends does the online retailer bet on for womenswear in 2025?

Zalando's Commercial Director Premium Nichole Styrdom talks about trends, fashion fatigue and chaotic individualization.

What are women looking for when they shop at Zalando right now?

Nichole Styrdom: As we analyze the FW24 demand, we observe that consumers are gravitating towards bold statement pieces, particularly "stand-out" outerwear ranging from faux fur and sequins to fringing. Fashion is experiencing a major shift, especially in the realm of accessories. The fashion enthusiasts are on the hunt for excitement and opulence. A notable trend emerging is “chaotic customization”, which embraces extravagant, unique embellishments and personalization. A prime example of this is the trend of over-accessorizing your go-to handbag with charms, with brands like Coach, Furla, and Zadig & Voltaire.

Does this mean that the trend toward quiet luxury is fading out?

Yes! 2025 marks a noticeable departure from the minimalist appeal of quiet luxury, as vibrant self-expression, bold personality and individuality take center stage.

Do you perceive a sort of tiredness with trends from women?

Fashionistas are experiencing fashion fatigue, caused by the overwhelming number of available options, and are increasingly looking for inspiration for their personal style. At Zalando, we address this need with innovations such as Trend Spotter tool, launched earlier this year as a new shopping experience. The Trend Spotter highlights emerging fashion trends across major European fashion capitals, using data to spotlight current trends.

Zalando also did some customer research while working on the brand positioning earlier this year, which seemed to back this observation.

Our research showed that customers want to find a middle ground between feeling unique and fitting in. They also strive for authentic self-expression: they want their look to reflect their personality. That’s why our new brand positioning, launched with the Autumn/Winter 2024 campaign “What Do I Wear?” really focuses on the idea of enhancing our customers' style confidence. Our most recent holiday campaign further builds on this idea, as the universal question, ‘What do I wear?’ takes on new significance during the holiday season with so many different occasions to dress up for.

Which item or trend was selling well in 2024 and will remain relevant in the coming year?

“Sleek-Kicks” aka the polished sneaker rose as the winning style this season and will continue into 2025. Complimenting this trend are the suede sneakers, the latest luxury must-have. New Balance, particularly through its Miu Miu collaboration, is leading the trend with its in-demand pairs, while other brands like Puma and Adidas are also seeing popularity, with styles like the Speedcat and Sambas consistently selling out.

Another trend is “Diesel-Mania", driven by the ongoing popularity of the brand's cult-favorite 90s 1DR bag and the revival of distressed 90s denim. Denim culture is evolving, with sexier statement pieces emerging, from corsets to cropped and tailored jackets.

In 2024, volatile weather patterns were challenging for fashion retail. How does Zalando deal with these?

Volatile weather patterns greatly impact demand forecasting and stock management, often causing sudden spikes in demand and making it challenging to time seasonal purchases. The blending of seasons has become the new norm. At Zalando, we steer a delivery phasing system that adapts to these changes, allowing us to adjust orders as needed and release small quantities of seasonal products to test demand. This is an ongoing process of testing and learning.

With our extensive customer data and buying expertise, many of our brand partners rely on us for guidance on where to focus on seasonal must-haves. Additionally, with our broad customer reach, we have the ability to help steer and reignite trends once the weather shifts.

Where are you looking for inspiration for the upcoming AW25/26 season?

The hunt for inspiration has evolved, and while we spend less time at trade fairs, we remain deeply focused on staying culturally relevant. The fashion market is driven by trend cycles influenced by both macro and micro factors, along with the adoption of the Zeitgeist. To stay ahead of the competition, we anticipate customer shopping behavior, predict and optimize the lifespan of trends. Our partners at Highsnobiety also support Zalando in tracking trends. We know that consumers are increasingly seeking emotional connections with brands, which calls for strategies that emphasize authenticity. This shift, propelled by the "creator influence" phenomenon, will be central to effective brand engagement and trend adoption in the future.

Are there items or trends that you will be betting on for 2025?

For Spring/Summer 2025, key trends include the "Boho and Boudoir" aesthetic, marked by lingerie-inspired pieces like corsets, bralettes, and hot pants supported by the “underwear becomes outwear” trend. We see the comeback of the 90s hobo handbag, and mini-me top-handle bags. Over-accessorizing remains a focal point with the spotlight on jewelry trends like the double layering of iconic tennis neck & bracelets and logo-driven designs from Lacoste to Versace. Beyond sneakers, textile big bets include workwear with durable fabrics, raw finishes, and oversized silhouettes. Another is the "Wild West" wave, inspired by country music, which introduces fringe, studs, embroidery, and mixed materials with a strong denim-on-denim presence. As transeasonal autumn approaches, the "Tech Sport" evolves with fitted polos, leggings, bomber jackets, and reimagined trench coats for that sporty-meets-sophisticated look.

Has your buying process changed over the past years?

Yes, the buying process has significantly evolved over the past few years. Digital tools now play a major role in how we approach buying, especially with advancements in data analytics. We rely heavily on digital tools for trend forecasting, inventory management, and analyzing customer data to guide purchasing decisions.

But we take a hybrid approach, as there are still aspects that require hands-on involvement, visiting suppliers or showrooms for in-person meetings, examining materials, size and fit analysis and understanding the quality of products. We design and co-create a large share of our assortment that is exclusive to Zalando and this requires a high share of face-to-face interaction.

How does the replenishment of products at Zalando work currently and in how far is it automated?

We are proud to have a best-in-class automated replenishment system that ensures effective demand planning, allowing for healthy and robust stock management. We are able to stay agile and quick to respond to demand spikes.

Could you give an example to illustrate the automatic replenishment?

When a style is trending, our automated replenishment system detects the demand surge, analyzes stock and sales trends, and triggers a reorder. This ensures we meet demand, maintain customer satisfaction, and optimize sales without overstocking.

Finally, will you increase or decrease your budget for next season?

Zalando's growth strategy prioritizes differentiation through quality, aiming to provide customers with the best possible shopping experience in fashion and lifestyle. While I can’t disclose our budgeting details, I can say that we are dedicated to driving sustainable growth by strategically allocating our budget.

Note: This interview was conducted in writing.