How Rosalía is set to make Ann Demeulemeester a must-have brand

Singer-songwriter Rosalía began her tour of France this week. After the huge media buzz surrounding her track 'Berghain', the international star's spectacular tour could well thrust a brand little-known to the general public back into the spotlight: Ann Demeulemeester.

On March 17, Rosalía launched the first leg of her Lux Tour world tour in Lyon. In addition to her performance, her costumes also drew attention. According to Télérama magazine, the show “draws on the codes of theatre and opera”. This unique approach is characteristic of the artist and is accompanied by pieces designed by Stefano Gallici, creative director of Ann Demeulemeester.

As the brand stated, Stefano Gallici developed three silhouettes in close collaboration with Rosalía and her creative team. “Each outfit has been designed to support intense movement and choreography, allowing for gradual removal throughout the performance so that each transformation reveals a new silhouette. The costumes thus become an integral part of the show's narrative,” the brand affirmed in a statement.

Three Rosalía looks designed by Stefano Gallici

The first look features a multi-layered silhouette inspired by classical ballet. It comprises a draped chiffon top; an openwork lace bodysuit; and an imposing, pleated, ruffled tutu. Integrated ties at the top's armholes allow the sleeves to be added or removed depending on the choreography. The singer also wore ballet flats: a pair crafted from soft pink satin, featuring a structured Mary Jane strap.

The second costume features a Napoleonic jacket and Bloom trousers. The jacket is crafted from several fitted panels, extending into an elongated tailcoat silhouette.

The third look “introduces structure and historical references to bespoke tailoring,” the Ann Demeulemeester brand specified. It is a chiffon dress with a crinoline structure and winged accessories. The dress features a ruched neckline, adjustable with drawstrings. The piece is completed by a spectacular 15-metre train.

Its crinoline structure, which recalls the current 18th-century trend, is composed of lightweight boning and vertical support bands.

Finally, Rosalía wears high black satin boots and a feather-winged harness crafted from chiffon and tulle, along with an aged-wing headdress.

Historic collaboration for the brand

This is not the first time the house of Ann Demeulemeester has created costumes for international stars. It has previously dressed Charli XCX; Slowdive; Nine Inch Nails; The Underground Youth; Anna von Hausswolff; and Stella Rose Gahan. However, Rosalía's significant influence on the current music scene, with 28 million Instagram followers and a very diverse audience, could well be a landmark moment for the house.

The singer is known for her avant-garde creative approach, acting as a true “curator”. By choosing a niche, cutting-edge and historic brand like Ann Demeulemeester, she is not merely acting as a billboard. She is validating the label's “hype” and artistic integrity. Furthermore, similar to tours by international stars like Beyoncé, the tour costumes continuously generate thousands of TikTok videos and Instagram Reels, creating a global advertising campaign for Ann Demeulemeester.

This spotlight comes three years after Stefano Gallici's appointment as the house's creative director. The designer succeeded Ludovic de Saint Sernin, whose extremely short tenure of less than a year raised questions within the fashion industry. Gallici was previously head of menswear at Ann Demeulemeester and faced the difficult task of restoring the image of the house, founded in 1985. This historic partnership with Rosalía proves he is on the right track.