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The waltz of creative directors in 2023

By FashionUnited


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Tom Ford during the finale of his SS23 fashion show in New York (September 2022). Credits: Catwalk Pictures

As is the case every year, there is a succession of creative directors at ready-to-wear brands and major luxury houses. In 2023, Gabriela Hearst, who had been head of creation at Chloé for three years, announced her departure, while Tom Ford left his eponymous label to turn his attentions towards his cinematic passions. Most recently, a most notable depature could also be seen at Surpeme, where it was revealed that Tremaine Emory had stepped down. Elsewhere, the minimalist, contemporary style of Peter Do has joined Helmut Lang, while Louis Vuitton has appointed the multi-faceted artist Pharrell Williams to embody its new vision for men. FashionUnited looks back at the departures and arrivals that have marked the fashion industry since the start of the year.

The departures

Lacoste (Maus Frères group) announced in January the departure of its artistic director, Louise Trotter. It was later revealed that Trotter would be taking on the same role at French fashion label Carven... Continue reading

In a press release sent on March 20, 2023, the Italian luxury brand, Moschino, revealed that Jeremy Scott was leaving his position as creative director after ten years of close collaboration... Continue reading

Bruno Sialelli, the creative director of Lanvin, recently left the French luxury house. The company owned by Lanvin Group (formerly Fosun Fashion Group) intends to rethink its creative process by opting for the model of the guest designer... Continue reading

A little over two years after appointing Charles de Vilmorin as head of its artistic direction, the French fashion house Rochas parted ways with the young talent in April... Continue reading

The Swiss luxury brand Bally (Jab Holding Company group) has parted ways with its artistic director Rhuigi Villaseñor, a year after his appointment to the position... Continue reading

The contract which united the Belgian brand, Ann Demeulemeester, with Ludovic de Saint Sernin ended after only one season, autumn/winter 2023-2024. The creator then went on to bolster the presence of his eponymous brand, which presented during Paris Fashion Week... Continue reading

A month after rumours spread about Gabriela Hearst's departure from Chloé, the French label confirmed the divorce in June. The creative director's last collection will be unveiled on September 28, during Paris Fashion Week... Continue reading

The Italian luxury group Tod's confirmed on Wednesday July 12 the departure of its creative director, Walter Chiapponi, after a four-year mandate... Continue reading

The arrivals

Earlier this year, Gucci appointed Italian Sabato De Sarno, fashion director at Valentino, to head up Gucci's creative direction, following the departure of Alessandro Michele at the end of 2022... Continue reading

Since February, pop star Pharrell Williams has taken over the artistic direction of Louis Vuitton Homme... Continue reading

The lingerie brand Wolford has offered itself two headliners through the recruitment of Nao Takekoshi as artistic director, and the choice of the iconic Grace Jones, to embody the spring-summer 2023 campaign... Continue reading

Dunhill, a British luxury menswear and accessories brand, has appointed Simon Holloway as dreative director... Continue reading

Fashion brand Helmut Lang has announced the appointment of Peter Do as artistic director. Since the departure of its creator in 2005, the company has undergone several transformations and changes of ownership... Continue reading

The Estée Lauder Group (ELC), the new owner of the Tom Ford brand, announced in May the appointment of Guillaume Jesel as president and CEO of the company and that of Peter Hawkings who now holds the position of creative director... Continue reading

Since July, the artistic direction of the Milanese brand Fiorucci has been entrusted to Francesca Murri, who has already proven herself with prestigious houses such as Versace, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Givenchy and Ferragamo... Continue reading

Gabriela Hearst
Jeremy Scott
Louise Trotter
Peter Do
Pharrell Williams
Rhuigi Villasenor
Tom Ford