From pop-ups to permanence: Re:Bourn founder on building a new model for vintage retail

In the midst of the pandemic, Sophie Cabourn was confronted with an issue; her personal vintage archive was outgrowing her surroundings. After returning to Newcastle following a period in London, and like many during lockdown, she turned to resale as a solution. For Cabourn, however, her pieces, many high luxury and rare, required a more specialised platform that allowed to bring her fervour for handpicked vintage to a distinct audience.

It was around this time that she met Thomas Smith, her now partner, who suggested trying a vintage and vinyl market in North Shields. The ensuing influx in demand pushed Cabourn to continue selling, even when the market shuttered. Five years later, Cabourn is now the owner of a permanent store. Her company, Re:Bourn, has officially set up a base in Newcastle’s cultural and creative hub, Ouseburn.

The store itself stands apart from the city’s typical retail network. Located in Foundry Lane Industrial Estate, it sits within a steel frame construction, a setting that is fitting for the more rugged identity of a Northern born-and-bred vintage retailer. The interior has a spattering of exposed pipes, raw materials, DIY elements and vintage furnishings, and yet remains warm and inviting.

A hidden door takes customers into a secret room, low-lit and painted pink, with a vintage TV in the corner showing clips of runway shows by Cabourn’s father, the late designer Nigel Cabourn. A selection of womenswear clothing lines the walls, an expansion on the prior menswear and outerwear focus Re:Bourn had once had, evidence of Cabourn pivoting to make the categories equal. The backend of the shop faces out on the river, where benches encourage passers by to sit and enjoy the view.

Nurturing community in a permanent space

The homey atmosphere is intentional. When developing the idea for the store, Cabourn had noted a lack of independents in the city, while larger retailers were missing a much-need personal touch. “I think people feel so neglected by the retail world,” she tells FashionUnited. “You don’t get the human interaction, you don’t get the care from people. It’s more than just clothing; it’s a bit of a community that we’re trying to build.”

After hosting a series of pop-ups around the country, Cabourn felt it was necessary to establish a more permanent setting in order to nurture the community Re:Bourn had subsequently gained. The support that came from those surrounding Cabourn in Newcastle, a city often known for its friendly residents, reaffirmed that decision. “It’s very nurturing,” she says. “It allowed me to make a lot of mistakes with not many repercussions, because a lot of people opened their hearts and businesses.”

The response suggests a hunger to support locally grown names in the North East, a region creative talent often departs to follow the promise of more opportunities in the South. Cabourn says this was evident when she was trying to build a team around the brand, but those now employed are passionate about the message Re:Bourn is sending.

The resulting environment is one that reflects what Cabourn learned from her dad, Nigel, who was known for utility-driven, vintage military-inspired collections. “He could have made a lot more money, but he chose to do things right, pay people right, do the right deals,” she states. “I remember that from him, ever since I was a little girl: always treat people right in life, not just in business. And I want to carry that with me.”

This extends into the consumer environment. Despite having an overall positive reception from people in Newcastle, Cabourn recognises that Re:Bourn may not be for everyone. Price is a bone of contention. When rare products such as pieces from Karl Lagerfeld’s first runway for Chanel are sitting on the shelf, the price tag may be eyewatering for those that aren’t aware of their value. Cabourn says she tries not to take criticism personally, and understands that she can’t please everyone.

She hopes, however, that Re:Bourn’s store will appeal across demographics, from parent to child, with some products in the physical space, including T-shirts and sunglasses, remaining price-friendly. In a bid to challenge misconceptions about the value of vintage, Cabourn also urges customers to ask about the prices if they have concerns. “It has been well received by the right people,” she notes. “The people that don’t get it, I wish they’d talk to me more, because there’s a reason for the prices.”

Communication-wise, sustainability is no longer an imperative discussion point, aligning with a broader change of tide in how consumers are responding to the category. “People, in a good way, are more willing to buy vintage and circular, but at the same time, they’re also aware that a lot of companies are greenwashing,” she says. “It goes without saying that we’re sustainable, and I don’t want to add to the problem because it’s still buying clothes at the end of the day.”

Considered curation to remain at the core

This also goes for the online site, which remains operational alongside the new store. Here, consumers have amassed from beyond the UK, with Japan and the US serving as the largest markets. Cabourn also makes sure to retain the personal touch by delivering packages herself if someone has ordered locally. Men make up the majority of online orders, with Cabourn suggesting that women could dominate the physical space, largely due to their more considered, hands-on approach to shopping. As a result, women also tend to be the largest purchasers of high-end designer goods, she notes.

Cabourn insists that she doesn’t curate based on trends or sales, and instead makes selections based on what the team is drawn to. Customers then tend to adapt to what Re:Bourn brings them, whether that be well-known staples like Stone Island sweaters or the more obscure items, like coats by Japan’s Norbit, a best seller at the retailer. What this will look like in a physical space, however, is yet to be determined.

Pop-ups remain imperative to Re:Bourn’s strategy, with one taking place in Manchester later this month. However, while this temporary setup is notably different from a firm base, Cabourn’s approach to curation intends to remain intact. Each item that passes through the door is considered and handpicked, a process she admits is a lot more work than bundle buying, but means that quality is maintained across the board.

“We work with a lot of independent sellers and we buy whole collections from people,” Cabourn explains. As a result, the business has not been noticeably impacted by the rise of peer-to-peer resale platforms like Vinted, nor by the increasing popularity of more expansive vintage retailers.

It once again reaffirms that personal approach to business Cabourn holds at the root of Re:Bourn, which will run into how she will operate the permanent space. “We’ve met so many amazing people through doing this, so many lifelong friends,” she says. “I want a space where they can come and hang out. It’s more than just selling clothes. I want to continue collaborating with people, with DJs, with musicians, with artists. It’s a space to bring everyone together.”