Shein to open in provincial BHV stores this Wednesday, following Paris debut

Initially announced for late 2025, Shein stores are opening this Wednesday in four provincial BHV department stores. The rollout comes four months after the outcry caused by the brand's first permanent store opening at BHV Marais in Paris.

These openings in French cities Limoges, Angers, Dijon, Grenoble and Reims stem from a partnership unveiled last October. The partnership is between BHV's operator, Société des grands magasins (SGM), co-founded by Frédéric Merlin, and the ultra-fast fashion giant Shein. This collaboration remains controversial, as the Asian retailer is regularly accused of unfair competition and environmental pollution.

Operating model revised after the storm

In mid-November, Merlin had to announce the postponement of the regional openings. The group was in the midst of a media storm following the discovery of illicit products on its platform. These included Category A weapons and items of a paedopornographic nature sold by third parties.

The executive cited the need to “adapt the offering” and “pricing policy” to avoid “frustrating customers”. This came just ten days after the inauguration of the Parisian space. The rollout of these new spaces, with floor areas ranging from 500 to 1,000 square metres, will now be carried out “progressively”, according to a joint statement.

In the short term, the offering will remain primarily winter-focused. “From the beginning of April, it will incorporate more seasonal items and products aligned with locally observed preferences,” Quentin Ruffat, a spokesperson for Shein in France, told AFP. Under this new arrangement, Shein now manages orders, while SGM receives a commission on sales. Merlin also warned: “If the experiment does not work within a year, we will stop.”

Popular success tinged with controversy

In Paris, the trial is still struggling to convince, despite attracting 5,000 visitors per day. Customers have particularly lamented higher prices than online. This is an impression Shein is trying to erase by promising a “wider selection” and specific promotional activities in the provinces. The retailer is betting heavily on this expansion, as 95 percent of its French customers live outside major cities like Paris, Lyon or Marseille.

However, the brand's arrival in historic locations is causing an uproar. The mayors of Dijon and Grenoble have expressed their strong opposition. The conflict has even led the Galeries Lafayette group to terminate its contract with SGM for seven provincial stores, refusing to have Shein's brand image associated with its own.

Growing judicial and political pressure

The social climate remains tense. In Paris, around one hundred luxury and cosmetics brands have already left BHV Marais to protest this partnership. “We will not get our customers back as long as Shein is here,” worries the joint union committee of the Parisian department store.

Beyond its image, the legal framework threatens the retailer. Last week, the European Union opened an investigation into Shein for alleged breaches of its safety rules. In France, the pressure is at its peak, with the state demanding a block on Shein's marketplace. The French courts are set to deliver their verdict on March 19, a date that could bring a sudden halt to this physical expansion strategy.