From mentors to brand strategy: NZA sales director Wilberd van Doorn on inspiration and growth

Margins are under pressure and consumer behaviour is changing faster than ever. Brands are being forced to make more conscious, strategic and consistent choices. While many players in the fashion industry are searching for stability, NZA New Zealand Auckland has demonstrated remarkably stable growth for years in both retail and wholesale. One of the key figures behind this direction is sales director Wilberd van Doorn, who has played a decisive role within the brand for over ten years. His story is one of craftsmanship, inspiration and vision, elements that seamlessly align with the industry's transformation.

Career built on inspiration

Van Doorn entered the fashion industry through his neighbour, Robert Theijssen. His professional development, however, was primarily shaped by the people who guided him along the way. At Esprit, he learned the fundamentals of the trade from former director Peter Kruip: structure; discipline; and long-term thinking. From Jerry Abma at Bestseller, he discovered how to build sustainable franchise partnerships based on trust and shared entrepreneurship.

He also cites Robert Thijssen and Ben Mandemakers as important examples for their vision and entrepreneurial energy. Renzo Rosso of Diesel also had a lasting influence on his thinking about brand building. “A man I must not forget when it comes to brand thinking and building,” says Van Doorn. All these mentors together form the basis of his leadership style: being available; listening well; daring to make clear choices; and ensuring consistency. “Warm on the outside, but clear and firm in the choices we make together.”

From trade to brand building: staying course in a changing industry

According to Van Doorn, the fashion industry is in the midst of a fundamental transition. “We are moving from the working methods of the eighties towards the reality of 2030. Where it used to be mainly about trade, it is now about building brands.” NZA made this shift early on. The brand discontinued its womenswear and kidswear lines to focus entirely on men's casualwear, a conscious choice for brand value over volume. This decision remains at the heart of its strategy to this day.

NZA now has approximately 60 monobrand stores and collaborates with carefully selected retail partners worldwide, where shop-in-shop concepts play a significant role. The philosophy is deliberately clear: controlled distribution; collaboration with the best entrepreneurs rather than the most; and a pricing policy that protects brand value. As Van Doorn puts it, “We don't want the most customers in a city, but the best customers.” The example of Middelburg illustrates how this approach works in practice: a dedicated store linked to one strategic partner who presents the brand at the highest level.

International expansion: growing with vision, partners and agility

NZA's international strategy is a logical extension of its successful approach in the Netherlands. Short lines of communication between management, product development, sales and the brand team enable the brand to respond quickly to market changes. Although the core collection remains consistent globally, accents are subtly adapted for each country. Germany, for example, requires different qualities than Spain, while the brand's DNA always remains recognisable.

Successful initiatives in recent years include a focus on monobrand stores, a defensive markdown policy and the decision to work with its own sales team instead of agents. In the Netherlands, NZA deliberately partners with family businesses: entrepreneurs who not only sell the brand but also embody it. The expansion plans are ambitious. “Internationally, we see room for 50 to 60 new stores,” says Van Doorn. The current focus is on Germany and Belgium, where several new stores are opening this year, including six in March and another six to seven in September. A new store in Hasselt will also be added in Belgium.

Leadership as engine for growth

Van Doorn's leadership style is down-to-earth, approachable and goal-oriented. He believes in clarity, but above all, in trust. “When someone comes up with a good idea, nine times out of ten I say: go for it,” he explains. His motivation lies in building a strong A-brand in Europe and mentoring young talent. His advice to newcomers aligns perfectly with this: start at the bottom; be eager to learn; show initiative; and use the first few years to absorb everything. “Only after four to five years can you truly begin to specialise.”

This brings the story back to the core of his career: the value of people. The insights, guidance and inspiration he received are now being passed on to the next generation. This is what makes his leadership so relevant for the future of NZA.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@fashionunited.com