Chinese market: How a local presence helps French brands to establish themselves
During this year's Shanghai Fashion Week, Promas, the organisation for the promotion of menswear in France and abroad, supported Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Coltesse, EgonLab and Baziszt in their approach to the Chinese market. Initial findings reveal distinct strategies, balancing business development, local integration and collection adjustments.
As part of the operations led by Promas, and reported by Hervé Huchet, the Fédération Française des Industries du Vêtement Masculin (FFIVM) organised the second edition of the Boarding Pass* programme and its first showroom (Showroom List) in Shanghai from March 27 to 31, 2026.
This session supported four fashion brands: the eponymous labels of Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Florent Coltesse; Egon Lab, represented by Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix; and Baziszt, founded by the duo Jean-Marc Fellous (formerly PR) and Zied Ben Amor. FashionUnited followed them as they explored this market.
Retail tour: a place for French brands in Shanghai's multi-brand stores
The tour began at Galeries Lafayette Shanghai. The team then visited Le Monde de Shanghai, ENG and Assemblée by Réel.
The impression from these visits is that French brands have a limited presence in these stores. There is a clear discrepancy between the signage and the actual labels on the products. In contrast, Belgian brands like Dries Van Noten and Walter Van Beirendonck, as well as British brands, are more widely stocked.
This selection is likely due to a strong preference in Shanghai, and by extension China, for what is considered cute or Keai (the Chinese translation of kawaii). The city is filled with charms, trinkets and pendants, extending accessories into the emotional realm of the “kidult” consumer (half-child, half-adult).
Conversely, there is a more minimalist trend, driven by the local brand Icicle. Some boutiques, such as LabelHood, perfectly embody this aesthetic.
“French design embodies the latest trends from a global fashion capital: elegant, natural and cool,” said Lingteng Ou, co-founder of Le Monde de Shanghai (LMDS). He cited Botter, Coperni, Courrèges, Casablanca, Goossens and Lanvin, a portfolio that mixes French houses with Parisian brands of international standing.
A French brand showroom at the heart of the local creative scene
The showroom for the invited French brands was located in the former French Concession (89 Wuyuan Road, Xuhui district). This neighbourhood, with its plane tree-lined streets, is considered Shanghai's equivalent of the Marais.
Located on the first floor of a low-rise residential building, a world away from the skyscrapers that dominate Shanghai's collective imagination, its location signified a desire to embed within an ecosystem of independent fashion and experiential retail. This reflects a trend-setting position rather than a mass-market approach.
According to Anne-Laure Oval, a strategic development consultant at ALBO Conseil and a business speaker for the Boarding Pass programme, the Chinese market is both mature and growing. It is driven by a young population still developing its fashion identity. Far from being saturated, the market still offers real potential for French designers, provided they adapt their positioning between volume, image and more exclusive offerings.
Promas: connecting French fashion designers with Chinese buyers
With Shanghai Fashion Week taking place concurrently, many buyers attended to discover these brands, including Summer Rise; Solsol; LMDS; Galeries Lafayette Shanghai; Mods Store; Maison Daglian; Refresh; Look Now; The Balencing; IT Men; Labelhood; and ENG.
As explained by Hervé Huchet, international director of the FFIVM, this programme primarily aims to strengthen the visibility and reputation of brands in targeted markets. This is achieved through press and influencer initiatives to foster their local emergence.
Bazișt benefited from this dynamic, a brand FashionUnited will revisit in the future. Bazișt met with local journalists and influencers, some of whom, according to the founders, were already familiar with its world.
For some, their reputation had already spread far beyond national borders and the Great Firewall, a system for filtering and controlling online content**. For instance, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who attended via the List showroom, had never been to China before. Yet, his name was so well-known that a party was organised in his honour at Heim, an underground electronic music club. The event was attended by the vanguard of Chinese youth, as well as Simon Porte-Jacquemus and Haider Ackermann.
The commercial reality will be determined in October during the second edition of Boarding Pass Shanghai and its next showroom. Nevertheless, FashionUnited noted that the participating brands reported satisfactory initial feedback.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin: a trunk show for the October 2026 showroom
“I particularly enjoyed the environment, the kindness of the people, the culture and the food,” Ludovic de Saint Sernin told FashionUnited. “The Federation was very supportive, and the showroom went very well. It was the first time visitors could see the pieces in person, touch them, appreciate the quality of the materials and try on the fits.”
Nicolas Leoni, head of business development for Ludovic de Saint Sernin, detailed an agreement with LDMS: “The idea is to bring them couture or made-to-order pieces for the next List Shanghai session, which they can present to their VIP clients during a trunk show.”
EgonLab: towards a dedicated brand extension for the Chinese market
According to Hervé Huchet, 'Made in France' is not the most decisive factor in China. Brands can produce locally if it aligns with their development goals. They also have the option to establish collaborations with Chinese brands and manufacturers. In this context, organisations like Bonjour Brand connect French designers with local companies, fostering co-creation and collection development.
EgonLab is a case in point. Having already established a market in South Korea and Japan, its autumn/winter 2026/2027 collection was selected by five stores. Other buyers will travel to Paris in June for Paris Fashion Week.
Furthermore, the brand has formalised plans to launch a collection dedicated to the Chinese market. “We will work with Chinese stylists and photographers and manufacture in factories here,” explained Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix in unison. “We will maintain our DNA while offering a collection tailored to their needs.”
The duo took advantage of the trip to visit a factory and shoot their campaign on the streets of Shanghai, employing an inclusive casting approach with individuals who have unconventional profiles.
Coltesse: encouraging feedback to structure its development in China
For Coltesse, it was also a first experience: “We are here to introduce ourselves, but then the discussions happen in Chinese***,” the brand's designer confided. “The goal is to make contact and build relationships. I listened to what the buyers said about my collection with the aim of refining my offer according to their needs.”
This feedback highlighted the need to enhance the product's clarity, particularly through more distinct details and materials. He also emphasised the challenge of differentiation in a highly competitive market, where brand visibility depends as much on the product as on its presence on local platforms.
While he had no specific sales expectations, he still attracted the interest of LabelHood. More than just a store, Labelhood operates as an integrated platform, combining retail, incubation and visibility during Shanghai Fashion Week. For a brand like Coltesse, being stocked there means gaining access to an ecosystem that can accelerate its visibility and market entry with local players.
These initial findings confirm the value of engaging with the Chinese market on its own turf, rather than waiting for buyers in Paris. Commercial success, however, will be a long-term game, with the next edition in Shanghai in October 2026 being a key milestone.
*As a reminder, Boarding Pass is a selective one-year support programme for brands with high creative potential. It combines almost full financial support with a strategic diagnosis, including follow-up coaching and masterclasses. Each mission includes local meetings and retail tours to accelerate their international development.
** While Instagram is the leading social network for fashion in the West, Chinese consumers use Red Book or WeChat to stay informed.
*** The interface between the French brands and the Chinese market was managed by Envision Worldwide.
Florence Julienne travelled to Shanghai as a guest of the Fédération Française des Industries du Vêtement Masculin
This article was translated to English using an AI tool.
FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@fashionunited.com