Leather and fabric AW25/26 trends: What’s new at the Première Vision show?

What leather and fabric trends do the experts at Première Vision anticipate for the autumn/winter 2025/26 season? The French trade show, which took place from July 2 to July 4 at the Paris Nord Villepinte Convention Centre, was a somewhat unusual event due to its proximity to the Olympic Games. Florence Rousson, the new president of Première Vision, had expected a decline in visitor numbers in light of the clashing dates. Nevertheless, 937 exhibitors participated.

Despite this, it seemed to be a quiet season, a kind of breathing space between the two rounds of the French parliamentary elections, which took place on June 30 and July 7. At the same time, however, it was rich in innovations, as Première Vision's leather expert Carine Montarras, fashion director Desolina Suter and fashion project manager Lucie Jeannot emphasised.

Focus on tanneries for leather traceability

When it comes to environmentally responsible leather, it's less about the specific treatment or tanning of a product these days. Rather, it's about choosing a committed company that aligns with your own values. This starts with the selection of the tannery. The biggest challenge for the industry lies in traceability. Due to increasingly stringent regulations, companies are increasingly being held accountable for their environmental impact. In the future, it will be necessary to certify that products manufactured in Europe are not linked to deforestation. While this data is not yet highly valued, it is fundamental.

Demanding leather: Vegetable tanning on the rise

Buyers are showing strong interest in vegetable-tanned leathers, which are traditionally considered stiff and difficult to dye, but are less environmentally damaging. A new generation of soft leathers in various colours and finishes, such as lamb stretch leather tanned with vegetable extracts, is gaining importance. This involves using tree barks such as quebracho, olive and rhubarb.

Refined leather from Les Teintures de France

For AW25/26, Première Vision presented a collaboration with Les Teintures de France. The technical versions of leather produced by the French finishing company feature laser engravings and perforations, digital embroidery with white yarn that is dyed during digital printing, and 3D prints of micro-studs.

Fabrics: Made old, worn or upcycled

AW25/26 is also characterised by bringing generations together: what is worn can also be beautiful. Old references are blended with new technologies to reformulate the past. Materials include lace with unusual effects and seemingly worn silk fabrics that give the impression that the fabric is actually perforated. In addition, the range includes raised pleats, wool fabrics with a worn, moth-eaten look and materials with other decorative signs of wear. Effects reminiscent of the clumsiness of ‘Do It Yourself’ are widespread. New fabrics are just as visible as old and recycled ones.

Tactile fabrics that cling to the body

This season moves away from the fantasy of the metaverse and artificial intelligence towards fabrics that are more concrete and tactile. The relationship with the body is evolving and is once again at the heart of design. The result is fabrics that drape easily, show flowing movements or allow for structural shapes. These include qualities such as knitwear, silk, jersey, cotton, warming mohair, velvet and damask. In the sporting world, this influence is found in combination with technical fabrics.

Dense materials for structured silhouettes

Special blends of fine yarns and dense compositions are reminiscent of structured volume in the style of the Spanish fashion house Balenciaga. The focus is on the use of durable materials that go beyond fashionable effects. Silk in particular is at the heart of this trend, combined with natural fibres such as lyocell, modal, linen and cotton. This means less reliance on synthetics and chemical finishes, as demonstrated by wool-cashmere blends and zibellino-cashmere, which has a sheen and slight waves created by thistles. Such approaches show that environmental responsibility can also be achieved through quality and not just through certifications or the avoidance of finishing.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translated and edited by Rachel Douglass.