3 emerging brands to watch from Copenhagen Fashion Week AW22

Copenhagen Fashion Week is fast becoming known for championing sustainability and nurturing emerging Scandinavian talent, and the autumn/winter 2022 edition was no different.

Over the years, the Danish capital has showcased homegrown designers including Stine Goya, By Malene Birger and Ganni, who have become international sensations, as well as most recently Danish upcycling brand (Di)vision, conceptual knitwear label A. Roege Hove and Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard, who blurred the boundaries between ready-to-wear and couture.

For autumn/winter 2022, the new crop of emerging design talent was headed up by recent graduate, Swedish designer Jade Cropper, who impressed with her Y2K aesthetic and sustainable practices, Copenhagen-based Kerne.milk, which already counts Kim Kardashian as a fan, and Tomorrow Denim, the world’s first denim brand certified by both The Nordic Swan Ecolabel and the EU Ecolabel.

Jade Cropper

Emerging talent Jade Cropper made her catwalk debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2022 with the support of the Swedish Fashion Council incubator program, Swedish Fashion Talents. Cropper is one of the many emerging designers at the Scandinavian showcase challenging current industry standards to highlight more sustainable methods and her AW22 collection was made exclusively from waste and recycled materials.

The ‘0002’ collection builds on the designer’s debut collection, exploring the traditional mindset of swimwear that could be worn as tops, to consider dresses and outerwear, while also being “intrigued” by asymmetric, feminine, and versatility in designs. The result is a sensual and feminine collection, which was grungy and glamorous with high slits, cut-out detailing, sheer fabrics, vintage denim and motorcycle leather looks.

Everything featured in the catwalk show, from sourcing to hand printing and the finished design, from daywear looks to the full sequinned evening dresses, were all made by the designer herself in her Stockholm studio.

Cropper, who graduated from Beckman’s College of Design in Stockholm, Sweden, has impressed both editors and buyers alike, not only for her Y2K aesthetic but also for how she highlights the use of recycled materials. To further promote sustainable fashion, Cropper has also developed a direct-to-consumer model for her fashion label based on micro drops, in-lie with her mission to steer away from fast fashion.

Commenting on her debut catwalk, founder and creative director Cropper said: “This is the first time that people will be able to experience the entire Jade Cropper universe. It is such a huge thing for me, and what's even more exciting is the fact that this is just the beginning.”

Kerne.milk

Independent Copenhagen-based Kerne.milk was founded by designer Marie Mark in 2019 and is now run with co-creative director Katrina Anne Wittig. It has a minimal waste policy, even collecting fabric cut-offs from production to use in its one-of-a-kind pieces and future collections.

The emerging womenswear brand creates feminine and dance-inspired pieces designed to complement curves and has already caught the attention of Kim Kardashian, who posted a selfie on Instagram last year in the brand’s bodycon ‘Paloma’ dress.

Utilising deadstock materials, Kerne.milk made its debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week with a playful and colourful collection exploring the movement of the body. Highlights include off-shoulder pieces featuring oversized and colourful buttons, cut-out detailing, bodycon dresses, intricate prints and mini skirts with ties at the side.

“Our vision lies within our garments,” adds Kerne.milk on its website. "We are determined to contribute to a more sustainable future by making garments in a high quality that can last longer. We truly believe in upcycling and by giving new life to already existing materials we seek to repurpose forgotten quality materials and create long love and lasting items.”

Tomorrow Denim

Launched in Copenhagen in 2018, Tomorrow Denim has placed itself at the forefront of sustainable denim, focusing on well-craft jeans fits and washes to prove that great style and a sustainable mindset go hand in hand.

The Danish-based label is inspired by Scandinavian minimalism, creating jeans that emphasise the female body, while keeping them comfortable by reworking classic workwear details or heavy denim into lean silhouettes and elegant denim wear.

Tomorrow Denim showcased its well-crafted denim at Copenhagen Fashion Week as a finalist for the Zalando Sustainability Award 2022, which was won by Danish menswear label Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen. While the Danish label may not have won, it did impress the judges with its commitment to sustainability, highlighted by the fact it is certified by both The Nordic Swan Ecolabel and the EU Ecolabel.

For autumn/winter 2022, Tomorrow Denim dedicated its collection to “all the brave individuals who tirelessly fight for more solidarity and harmony in the world, regardless of their personal sacrifice,” with denim pieces meant to empower and liberate. The label turned previously considered basic denim into statement pieces, with shirts featuring deep collar points, miniskirts with fringing, overalls with utility pockets, and wide flare legged jeans taking inspiration from the 70s and 90s.

Tomorrow Denim's no waste ambitions were also highlighted in the brand's up-cycled styles and patchwork pieces, designed to ensure that no surplus fabric goes to waste.

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