A. A. Spectrum: When European design meets Chinese expertise
Challenging preconceived notions about Chinese fashion, premium brand A. A. Spectrum champions a collaborative creative process between Geneva and Beijing. Its design director, Kevin Tallon, tells FashionUnited how a Swiss team collaborates daily with a Chinese industrial partner.
Born in Geneva to a Swiss mother and an English father, Tallon is a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London. He began his career with British designer Catherine Hamnett before collaborating with streetwear brand Maharishi.
He then developed the fashion unit of the Design Laboratory at Central Saint Martins, where he supported consulting projects for major luxury companies. Recruited in China, he joined Kappa China. After launching his own creative project, Capital Nord, he was approached via LinkedIn by A.A. Spectrum, founded in 2016 and became its design director in 2019.
Since 2020, the European design studio has been based in Geneva. The design is developed in Switzerland with a team of young designers. Production is carried out in China.
A.A. Spectrum relies on a European creative studio and Chinese production
“Thanks also to Head in Geneva, I started getting invited to be on juries. I met a new generation of designers. This inspired me to set up a small creative team,” explains Tallon. “In the West, we have more freedom of creative expression. The Chinese bring industrial discipline, quality and respect for deadlines.”
The industrial partner of A.A. Spectrum is Princs Limited. Founded by Ying Zheng and Amber Peng and originating from the Original Design Manufacturer (ODM) model, this provider supports the brand in both product development and manufacturing. While this partner is subject to the requirements of its European clients, particularly regarding social and compliance audits, A.A. Spectrum does not hold any certification labels.
A.A. Spectrum develops a cross-cultural approach, blending Western and Asian influences
Production is intentionally niche, far from the fast fashion volumes typically associated with Chinese brands. “Our cross-cultural approach draws inspiration from traditional Chinese elements, such as chests of drawers and heritage craftsmanship, blended with the spirit of European fashion and music,” notes the designer.
The spring/summer 2027 collection features garments made from ramie (a plant fibre); traditional Chinese textiles artisanally dyed in mud and then sun-dried; French linen; lyocell; and polyester for certain blends with technical properties.
A.A. Spectrum is positioned in the premium segment with prices starting at around 120 euros for a T-shirt and reaching up to one thousand euros for more high-end pieces. The brand has approximately 50 points of sale, with nearly 20 in China.
For Paris Fashion Week, rather than joining the runway race, A.A. Spectrum chooses to organise events that unite its community. These include a lavish dinner in a garage (underground style), a rock concert, immersive experiences or a Design Week. This is to offer a contemporary vision of Chinese culture rather than a simple product presentation.
For Tallon, China is no longer just the world's workshop: “They have evolved enormously. Today, they have a cultural influence that is clearly defined.”
In 20 years, he says he has seen the emergence of a new generation of local brands. He has also witnessed the rise of venues entirely dedicated to young designers, such as The Box shopping centre in Beijing, and a creative scene that no longer seeks to replicate Western or Japanese models but to build its own identity. “They are creative, very creative,” he summarises.