Between heatwave and restraint: Menswear trends from Paris

Paris Men's Fashion Week for spring/summer 2027 was overshadowed by a heatwave, from which only a few moments stood out visually. The focus was therefore on fans, umbrellas, and an artificial wave complete with a sandy beach at Louis Vuitton.

The French fashion house, under the direction of US rapper Pharrell Williams, garnered attention with lifestyle products such as a branded bicycle and surfboards against this backdrop. Meanwhile, his compatriot Rick Owens, in collaboration with Adidas, transformed track jackets into mobile air conditioning units. It seemed a period of calm had settled over menswear.

Designers were by no means resting; however, they opted for significantly more restrained looks. The focus was on light and fluid fabrics, as well as modern tailoring, with silhouettes becoming more minimalist and linear.

A certain sensuality enveloped the body, further emphasised by a predominantly androgynous cast. Individuals whose appearance could be attributed to different genders presented the looks, blurring boundaries in a relaxed and natural way. This was seen at Ernest W. Baker, Auralee, and Beautiful People, among others.

Sensual menswear

With the hot temperatures, brands this season leaned towards light and fluid fabrics. Instead of classic menswear with structured shirts and jackets, designers opted for transparent alternatives.

Dior's creative director Jonathan Anderson sent a fluid, checked blazer down the runway for the French fashion house. It was paired with a loosely buttoned shirt and ripped jeans. A casual scarf-tie completed the look.

Meanwhile, Parisian label Egonlab and Belgian fashion house Dries Van Noten favoured lightweight shirts, which drew attention with embellishments like embroidery and colour gradients. The Korean label Post Archive Faction even presented a full silky, transparent coat, along with several shirts and T-shirts that embodied this lightness.

Other brands conveyed this sense of effortlessness with fluid silhouettes, breathing fresh air into the otherwise rigid world of menswear. London-based menswear designer Kiko Kostadinov showed a loose poncho with a deep neckline. The Japanese label IM Men from the Issey Miyake universe and Michael Rider, in his first major menswear show for the French fashion house Celine, both opted for a simple, monochrome set of a long-sleeved top and wide trousers.

The Parisian brand Valette Studio gave classic menswear a modern twist, reinterpreting it in its own way. Designer Pierre-François Valette combined a simple dress shirt, forming the upper part, with a silky lower section that flowed into a train. This was paired with casual black suit trousers, creating a perfect symbiosis between current trends and traditional menswear.

Blazers and shorts

The blazer and short shorts looks were somewhat more classic, yet still had a modern, sporty approach. The selection ranged from a black suit with matching trousers to a mix of patterns and colours. Alongside smarter shorts, athletic styles were also on display. These were paired with lace-up ballet flats, boots, and even flip-flops.

Rain showers

A similarly hybrid approach was used for outerwear, which is particularly suited to the following scenario. The hot days of the past week repeatedly resulted in thunderstorms with heavy downpours. Often, one's own rain jacket is not exactly a stylish update, especially with a smarter look.

Japanese brands Beautiful People and Taakk, Korean label Solid Homme, and French fashion house Saint Laurent proved that classic menswear can work with such a practical jacket when styled correctly. All these brands elevated a previously simple look with a sportier outerwear piece.

I ♥

The streetwear sector was, of course, indispensable this season. A true marketing classic made its comeback: the T-shirt with the “I ♥” motif. Originally developed in the late 1970s by graphic designer Milton Glaser for a New York campaign, it is now a tourist staple that is repeatedly reinterpreted for the runway.

The Parisian brand 3.Paradis replaced the heart with a dove, while fellow Paris-based label Ami and Doublet expressed their affection for Paris and Fashion Week, respectively. The Japanese streetwear brand also showed another version, worn out with “scratch marks” and embodying a love for Puma. This was a nod to the German sportswear manufacturer with which Doublet collaborated for the collection.

Three stripes on the runway

Puma was not the only sports brand from Herzogenaurach to be seen on the Paris runway. Its direct competitor, Adidas, took the opportunity three times to present itself on another major stage, alongside the World Cup in the US, Canada, and Mexico.

First up was, of course, Y3, the collaborative label with Japanese fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto. Its creations this season seemed to be inspired by trail running and hiking. A Y3-branded running vest with bottle holders was part of the line-up.

The Australian label Song For The Mute also continued its collaboration with Adidas. The focus was once again on footwear. This time, the spotlight was on a new version of the Stan Smith tennis sneaker and the rugged Traxion 1000 Hiker walking boot.

Perhaps the most unexpected collaboration was with Rick Owens. After a break of almost ten years, Adidas and the US designer, known for his dark, avant-garde collections, revived their partnership. This time, Owens utilised the new Climacool technology, whose heat regulation is also benefiting footballers at the World Cup. The designer cooled his models with integrated fans in inflatable tracksuits.