California threads together new textile law

In a landmark move for fashion’s climate reckoning, California is preparing to implement the United States’ first Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) law focused on textiles. The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 (SB 707), signed into law by Governor Gavin Newsom late last year, places the onus on apparel and textile producers to fund and manage systems for the collection, reuse, and recycling of their products sold in the state.

On Thursday, July 17, the California Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery (CalRecycle) will host an inaugural workshop in Sacramento to initiate the regulatory framework behind SB 707. Held at the California Environmental Protection Agency Headquarters the meeting is expected to draw policymakers, recyclers, and fashion industry stakeholders. Topics on the agenda include collection infrastructure, producer obligations, and statewide reuse targets.

For an industry historically allergic to regulation, SB 707 signals a tectonic shift. The law mandates that companies selling garments and certain textiles in California must either form or join a stewardship organization, essentially underwriting their own waste. It’s a model familiar to packaging and battery producers, but novel for the fashion sector—one of the world’s most polluting industries.

The Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART), which represents textile recyclers and resellers globally, will be among those offering early input. Jessica Franken, SMART’s Director of Government Affairs, will deliver remarks on behalf of the industry, highlighting the logistical realities of textile recovery and calling for pragmatic implementation that reflects market conditions.

“SMART members are on the front lines of textile reuse and recycling,” Franken notes. “We’re encouraged by California’s commitment to engaging stakeholders early, and we look forward to contributing our operational expertise to help shape a program that works in practice—not just on paper.”

California’s EPR approach aligns with broader global momentum toward circularity. The EU is finalising its own textile waste legislation, while France has operated a national EPR program for clothing since 2007. For American fashion brands, long shielded from such mandates, the Golden State may now become a regulatory proving ground.

What remains to be seen is whether the industry, accustomed to runway flash and seasonal churn. can adapt to a model that values durability and end-of-life responsibility as much as trend cycles. For critics of fashion’s environmental cost, July 17 may mark the beginning of a long overdue accountability moment.