CPHFW NewTalent brands showcase SS23 collections
Copenhagen Fashion Week’s new emerging designer incubator ‘CPHFW NewTalent’ supported by Circulose showcased its first three inaugural brands, A. Roege Hove, Latimmier and P.L.N. during its spring/summer 2023 edition, which ran from August 9 to 12.
The scheme launched to support the “visionary talent of the Nordics,” provides the three emerging designer brands with monetary support, mentorships, partnership offerings, and professional advisors, as well as a slot on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week show schedule, and participation in the spring/summer ‘CPHFW NewTalent’ showcase showroom.
Emerging fashion at Copenhagen Fashion Week: P.L.N., A. Roege Hove, and Latimmier
P.L.N. ‘Collection II’
P.L.N. founder and creative director Peter Lundvald Nielsen, who has previously worked at Balenciaga, Vetements and Ottolinger before starting his own clothing brand in 2020, made his catwalk debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week with a punk-infused spring/summer 2023 collection.
At the heart of P.L.N. is the notion to challenge what Nielsen calls the “polished Danish fashion” scene with a dark but raw identity, influenced by European punk culture with references to workwear, goth and antique religious attire. The label is also focused on ensuring it is responsible and sustainable, offering only well-considered silhouettes that are constructed with longevity in mind, with all pieces only offered as ‘made to order’ as it is “good for the environment”.
For spring/summer 2023, P.L.N presented ‘Collection II’, filled with striking silhouettes in deep textures like oilskin canvas and reworked denim, with pieces featuring raw hems, frayed edges, and fringing. The black, grey and earth-toned gender-less collection made a statement on the catwalk with deconstruction jeans that looked like chaps secured with rivets, showcased alongside short leather skirts, corsets worn on the hips, and open knits.
P.L.N. also reinterpreted loungewear with hoodies with flowing fringe detailing on the arms and hood and skirts made from deconstructed sweatshirts complete with arms dragging on the floor, and distress, sheer tops.
With comparisons already been made with American designer Rick Owens for his rebellious energy and deconstructed pieces, P.L.N. is definitely a fashion label to watch in the coming seasons.
A. Roege Hove ‘Col. 8’
With stints at both Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan on her resume, designer Amalie Røge Hove is fast becoming one of the hottest designers to watch for her sculptural knitwear brand A. Roege Hove. The label, which presented its eighth collection during Copenhagen Fashion Week, already counts Browns, Ssense, and Farfetch as stockists and has garnered fans with her inclusive, sheer, form-fitting and sustainable knitwear.
For spring/summer 2023 ‘Col. 8,’ Hove revisited the earlier days of her career to reinvigorate her core obsession for knitwear taking inspiration from the principle of iteration, details and techniques that are repeated. The result is a collection of sensual separates and dresses crafted from her now signature crinkled cotton, with new colours such as lilac and apple green creating playful compositions in contrast to her usual monochrome palette of black, white and transparent.
Commenting on the collection, Hove said in the show notes: “After a few seasons of moving forward, it felt natural to take a step back and look at my old work and procedures. I wanted to allow myself to create with no purpose and take the time to immerse myself in the details and the systematics of knitting, and by this investigate the possibilities and extremes even further.”
Latimmier ‘Juvenile Expectations’
Founded by Finnish designer Ervin Latimer, a graduate from the prestigious Aalto University in Helsinki, Latimmier showcased at Copenhagen Fashion Week with a collection continuing its ‘masculinity is a performance’ aesthetic, reworking traditional masculine style with a sensual twist.
The spring/summer 2023 ‘Juvenile Expectations’ collection takes inspiration from ‘Fucking Åmål,’ a 1999 teenage lesbian drama by Swedish director Lukas Moodysson and the feeling of being stuck somewhere and the sense of wanting to break free from conservative, preordained limitations.
This is translated into a collection filled with relaxed and tailored silhouettes with a focus on the historical menswear essential, the button-down shirt, which doubles down on the codes first showcased in its debut collection unveiled at Pitti Uomo 101 in January 2022.
The result is a modern and sensual update to masculine tailoring, with striped summer shirts and tailored suits featuring cut-out shoulder detailing and oversized fits, while loose-fitting jeans are slashed to the thigh. The emerging designer also played with fabrics, with glossy oversized and relaxed jackets and trouser sets and leather trousers tied together with laces.
Latimmier also ensures sustainability is at the forefront, adding several recycled materials to this collection, including 100 percent recycled cashmere, recycled leather and recycled Tencel. In total, 60 percent of the SS23 collection materials are recycled, upcycled, certified organic or certified sustainable. Out of the rest, the label states that less than 2 percent contain oil-based fibres that are not of recycled origin.