DMI Fashion Days: Reconciling appearance and reality in fashion

Fashion

Willy Chavarria AW25 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

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"Authenticity is the currency of the moment," said Carl Tillessen at the beginning of his zeitgeist analysis for the German Fashion Institute (DMI) for the autumn/winter 2027 season. The word authenticity may have long been dismissed as an empty phrase. It usually only surfaced in marketing contexts or in connection with influencers, but it is now becoming an existential prerequisite. This is not just for relevance, but also for the success of fashion companies and the essential purchasing decisions of customers.

The presentation Tillessen gave at this year's Online Fashion Day was themed "Certificate of Authenticity". This term defines genuineness as the new must-have in an increasingly polarised world, oscillating between filter bubbles and fake news. What does an industry that has historically often defined itself through staging understand by genuineness? And how does a brand receive this so-called "certificate of authenticity"?

How does authenticity work?

"Everyone wants to be authentic, but no one knows exactly how to become so," admits Tillessen. The desire for genuineness is omnipresent. At the same time, the term has been overused and has become a buzzword. Restoring the term's original and true meaning is therefore not as simple as one might think. "By definition, people perceive something as authentic when appearance aligns with reality," the trend researcher quotes, explaining the term's origin and revealing the current dilemma. Many brands have long relied on their appearance. Their actual reality was not only neglected but completely buried.

Now, both must be reconciled, because congruence—between what you show and what you are—is more in demand today than ever before. It is about a new honesty that wins back consumer trust. Trust, according to Tillessen, is the prerequisite for people being willing to spend money.

For the DMI, this shift in values and consumer demand for authenticity is measurable. Nearly 80 percent of Gen Z customers state that buying from trustworthy brands is more important to them than ever before. Across all age groups, more than half of consumers are willing to pay more for brands they trust. In other words, those they perceive as authentic. Furthermore, 67 percent of customers declare that they remain loyal to brands they trust in the long term.

This is reason enough to examine what customers perceive as 'trustworthy'. In most cases, it is not just about honesty in the narrow sense, or even mere quality features, but about comprehensive authenticity. This new awareness demands not only transparency from brands, but also integrity. Those who acknowledge their history and especially their origins—including breaks and contradictions—have a greater chance of emotional resonance than ever before.

DNA as capital

Genuineness is currently highly valued. Slick success stories are giving way to unpretentiousness. It is no longer about telling the most beautiful story, but the true one, according to Tillessen. The era of high gloss seems to be over for now. Young consumers, in particular, sympathise with so-called "underdog perspectives" and narrative depth. This is an attitude that has turned designers like Willy Chavarria and Grace Wales Bonner into new industry giants.

Chavarria, the son of a Mexican immigrant, addresses the precarious but proud realities of the Latinx community in the US in his fashion. Bonner, in turn, transforms her personal migration story into fashion that "infuses European heritage with an Afro-Atlantic spirit." What initially seemed like a niche topic became mainstream thanks to their authenticity. The German sportswear manufacturer Adidas wanted a piece of this success in both cases and collaborated with the young talents.

The collaboration between Wales Bonner and Adidas particularly demonstrates the impact that stories rooted in one's own reality can have today. The designer insisted that the Samba sneaker model should be the centrepiece of her collaboration with the sportswear manufacturer. Although Adidas was initially hesitant, Bonner's credible and authentic story and sources of inspiration helped the shoe—and the brand—make an incredible comeback. The fact that a seemingly "unknown" newcomer can lead a global corporation to new heights impressively shows the power authentic stories currently hold. These stories are almost always rooted in the origin of a brand or person.

This focus on origin is also reflected in the current fashion campaigns of international houses. Of the ten best campaigns of the past year, as selected by the trade publication The Impression, seven celebrated the origin of their respective brand. This is a clear signal of the value of genuine, historically rooted narratives.

Struggle with origin

The pursuit of authenticity presents a particular challenge for German brands, especially when it comes to origin and history. "Many German brands have deliberately concealed their identity in the past," explains Carl Tillessen. This was a decision that seemed understandable for a long time. While France cultivated its handbag myths and Italy staged its shoe history, Germany had little to show for itself in fashion. And so Tillessen pointedly asks: "And what do we talk about in Germany? That our brands once sounded French?"

It is an exaggerated question, yet close to reality. Indeed, for decades, many German fashion companies were busy concealing their origins: René Lezard; Strenesse; Esprit; Escada—melodious names with an Anglo-French facade, born from a desire for international flair. The rise of the internet brought disillusionment. "The internet acts like a lie detector," says Tillessen. What was once considered clever branding became a liability. Brand identities based on fiction now seem implausible. This is a circumstance reflected in the development of many of these companies. They have lost significant relevance, and some have even had to file for bankruptcy.

However, this is no reason for gloom or to give up, as there are also examples of successful course corrections. The Italian shoe manufacturer Tod's originally invented a US founding story, only to initiate a radical strategy change in the wake of digitalisation. Instead of the US West Coast, the 'Italian lifestyle DNA' became the focus. The group began to communicate its actual brand history, rooted in Italy, which continues to define and drive Tod's success today. German brands also began to stop concealing their origins and instead consciously retell them, with noticeable success.

With Jil Sander, Heidemarie Jiline Sander opted for an Anglophone-sounding name and was thus able to position herself internationally. She quickly realised, however, that origin cannot be denied, but it can be recontextualised. Sander drew on German design tradition, particularly the Bauhaus, and as the "Queen of Less," made functionalist design the core of her internationally acclaimed aesthetic, which endures to this day. "Sander not only accepted her origin but actively revalued it in a positive way," emphasises Tillessen.

Perhaps, then, success ultimately lies in finding the right side of one's own story and telling it bravely. "The best brand story is not an invented one, but a found one," the trend researcher concludes. In the future, brands would do well to stop pretending and instead acknowledge their roots, and not just as a token gesture.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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