With global fashion weeks only just behind us, the course for the Canada Goose on 24s website has been quietly carved out and defined. Despite a turbulent month, most of the presentations went largely as planned and we are reminded of the significance of why fashion shows are still potently relevant, with some of the most energetic and apocalyptic presentations taking place in New York, Milan and Paris.
The key to the autumn-winter 2020 season is layering, and the dress code, if any, is minimalist, soft, tactile and textured. Here we highlight five stand-out trends from the womenswear catwalk season:
1. The multi-use garment
Designers across all fashion weeks are maximizing the idea of trans-seasonal items to deliver fashion with a view to longevity, versatility and the idea of multi-usage: the way a top could moonlight as outerwear, or how occasionwear can be reworked as separates suitable for the day. The takeaway is that the fashion in our wardrobes must work for us now and tomorrow.
2. Warm minimalism
Comfort and practicality may not the most alluring attributes to describe the fashion seen on the catwalks next season, but designers are merging elegance with cosiness as spotted in quieter, more considered silhouettes.
Minimalism came in tactile knitwear that hugs the body, executed at the highest quality to transcend time and outlive a season, like an oatmeal cashmere long sleeve dress seen at Agnona or a slouchy elongated blouclé cardigan proposed by Givenchy.
At The Row, masters of pared-down elegance, subtle styling came in the form of turtlenecks worn under roomy jackets and deconstructed tailoring in tone sur tone. Stripped of artifice, refinement can be seen in the fabric choices and the merging of comfort and desire.
3. Modern history
Layered silhouettes came in plenty of structured forms too, with less of the oversized and supersized shapes of the past, but a new reference to historical design, albeit in a modern outing.
Corsets, pussy-bow blouses, chain mail armour and even 18th century petticoats made their way onto the AW20 catwalks. At Louis Vuitton, there was a juxtaposition of the past and the contemporary, like a bolero paired with parachute pants, an amalgamation of sportswear with the codes of yesteryear.
At Paco Rabanne, a touch of the medieval found itself in monastery-inspired looks and tapestry-infused knits. Decorative motifs also made a play this season, like the red embroideries on transparent tulle seen at Alexander McQueen, or the ceremonial dresses gliding down the runway at Simone Rocha. Fast forward to the 1960s and there is Marc Jacobs’ proposition for a neat A-line coat, calf-length pixie boots and dressing a modern-day Jackie Kennedy.
4. Sustainable fashion
At Maison Margiela, vintage pieces were restored, re-appropriated and recycled under its new Recicla label. Stella McCartney, a pioneer in sustainable fashion, showed accessories made from vegan leather and faux shearling, proving that animal-free alternatives can be highly covetable. Marni presented a collage of fabric scraps to showcase “finding beauty in leftovers.” At London Fashion Week a clothing swap event set out to promote the sharing economy. Elsewhere catwalk designers are offsetting the carbon footprints resulting from show production, with Burberry presenting a carbon-neutral catwalk, opting for electric cars for transport, avoiding air-freight and planting trees in Australia.
5. Black is the new black
If black ever went out of style, it is back for Fall. It began with the nocturnal glamour seen at Dries van Noten, to the apocalyptic looks worn by models appearing to walk on water at Balenciaga. For next season, the colour black has made its way back in all the best iterations.
At Valentino, a house famed for its feminine colours, designer Pierpaolo Piccioli eschewed his usual palette and showcased 25 all black ensembles. At Saint Laurent, the doyenne of the night will be wearing a blazer, blouse and latex leggings, all in black of course. At Alexander McQueen and Givenchy, the propositions were both romantic and dramatic.
If the season taught us anything, it is that sartorially the all black look could soon make its way from the catwalk into our closets. When you invest in well-made, considered pieces, it will work now as well as tomorrow.
Image credit : Louis Vuitton Women Collection Fall-Winter 2020-21 © Louis Vuitton Malletier – All rights reserved