Haute Couture FW24: The Bridgerton Effect
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Shondaland’s ‘Bridgerton,’ based on Julia Quinn’s romance novels, is one of the most successful Netflix series of all time. Its unique mix of racial harmony, passionate romances and palace intrigues, not to mention the sumptuous clothing, all set to a contemporary musical score, has delighted viewers for three seasons.
The series is set in the period 1810-1820 when Britain’s King George III was deemed mentally unfit to rule and his son, the Prince Regent, took the reins. Henceforth this was known as the Regency period.
Despite the fact that France and England were at war, the Empress Josephine Bonaparte, dressed by Louis Hippolite Leroy, had a huge impact on the English upper classes. The stiff dresses with enormous pannier skirts and towering wigs of the previous Rococo period were replaced with high-waisted ‘empire’ gowns and natural hair styles. As it was considered paramount to be a graceful dancer at the many society balls given during ‘the season,’ the fluidity and ease of movement these dresses offered was a welcome change.
During the recent Haute Couture FW24 Week, it seemed that, whether by design, or just subliminally, designers were influenced by the Bridgerton TV show and the Regency period in general.
In the TV series, Queen Charlotte still dresses in the manner of Marie-Antoinette. It’s said that it reflects the earlier, happier years of her marriage and also so that her husband George might more easily recognize her. In his collection, Julien Fournié, paid tribute to the French Queen who lost her head, as the “first initiator of the Haute Couture”.
In his show, Franck Sorbier had some of his models arrive on the favorite Bridgerton mode of transport, the horse!
Dressed to Impress
Haute Couture designers showed a wide array of gowns that would look appropriate on today’s version of Lady Danbury’s ball, the red carpet.
Imane Ayissi
Look 19: a sleeveless gown in white duchess satin with an empire waist. The skirt was hemmed with a print that included flowers and bees and an oversized lilac sash was wrapped around it. Opera length pink gloves finished the look.
Dior: designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri
Look 53: a gold sequin column gown with a draped neckline and capped sleeves.
Elie Saab
Look 43: a scoop neck and layered tulle gown with scalloped shoulders and intricate beading.
Franck Sorbier
Look 8: a strapless gown in pastel chiffon with an empire waist and rose trim with gold mary-jane shoes.
What lay beneath
Under their clothes, Georgian women wore a combination of corsets, body stockings, pantaloons and thigh high stockings held up with garters.
Chanel
Look 38: a pink satin all-in-one with a sheer neck and sleeves and pantaloons had pleated trims and sequin embellishments.
Look 37: a pink corset with a pintuck chemise insert and cream leggings was shown under a cream satin cape with a ruffled trim.
Schiaparelli: designer, Daniel Roseberry
Look 23: a strapless bodysuit with a boned corset and thigh high stockings under a sequined sheer layer.
Caping With It
Capes were a popular form of cover-up in Regency England, Haute Couture FW24 designers showed them too.
Giambattista Valli
Look 17: a dainty floral print cape and matching gown with gathering below the bust and rose embellishments.
Look 29: a green chiffon cape with a full face hood and a matching high-waisted dress with a decorated chest panel.
Yulia Yanina
Look 20: a chiffon hooded cape and matching gown in a vibrant and dense floral print.
Layered Effects
Several international designers participated in the Oriental Fashion Show at the Shangri-La Hotel showing the sort of heavily embellished coats that Regency ladies wore on cooler nights.
Amina Benzekri
Look 5: a slender gold evening coat with turquoise embroidery and a sash belt over a turquoise silk layer.
Maison De Couture
Look 1: an evening coat with intricate beading and embroidery in pastel colors and a high-waisted belt and a green lining over a lilac silk gown.
Regalia
Look 1: an intricately embroidered evening coat in pastel colors was shown over a sparkling layer with multiple buttons and a high-waisted belt.