London calling! LFW SS24 ran from September 15 to September 19, 2023. As reported by FashionUnited , although London is well known to be a great place to find emerging talent, it is also a very expensive city to live and work in. Rising star Dilario Findikoglu canceled her show citing insufficient funds and the loss of Christopher Kane’s show, ( he entered administration earlier this year,) from the calendar was deeply felt. On the other hand, over 50 designers showed during the week delivering some strong trends.
Blue sky thinking
Pantone, the global authority on color predicted a shade of blue they called ‘Horizon Blue,’ “an atmospheric blue hue denoting where the sea meets the sky”. This certainly played out at LFW with one or two shades of pale blue shown on several runways.
Look 22: a broderie anglaise mid-length dress with broad straps in periwinkle blue over a long satin slip in the same color, a sheer top and a satin belt with crystal embellishment. A crochet cap and white boots completed the look.
Look 13: a blue Grecian style stretch jersey dress with exposed stomach. Accessories included a tan handheld bag and crochet clogs.
Look 8: a short pale blue tank dress with a flounce and a black placed print over shredded dark red jeans and yellow and red knee socks.
Fashion East, Standing Ground: designer: Michael Stewart
Look 29: a long pale blue dress in a stretch jersey with a draped overskirt and fringed embellishment.
Look 8: a pale blue dress with cutout front and sides in a semi-sheer fabric with a matching coat. Accessories included a white necklace and earrings in organic shapes and lime green strappy sandals.
A stitch in time
British fashion schools are renowned for producing graduates skilled in working with knit and crochet materials. As we saw in NYC this season, many designers used this media to create showstopping looks.
Di Petsa: designer Dimitra Petsa
Look 2: a long low-cut dress with a high/low hem in several white and gold knit weights and styles. Accessories included simple gold jewelry and nude sandals.
Look 8: a sweater with a geometric design, a deep vee front and a cold shoulder, in a black and white silk knit and matching pants. The look was accessorized with large hoop earrings and black boots.
Look 6: a bright blue fit and flare short dress with pockets, in a basket weave crochet style and beige crochet shoes.
Holzweiler: creative director Maria Skappel Holzweiler
Look 28: a white cotton crochet bikini under black diamond shaped crochet pants and a black silk coverall with a gold body chain and earrings.
Look 4: a short white crochet dress with long sleeves and a deep-vee front over gold underwear, accessorized by translucent rubber booties.
Extra-long fringe was perhaps the most predominant embellishment from London designers.
Look 19: a three piece white suit with a short boxy jacket, wrap front mini skirt and pants over a black top with super long fringe. White flat toed shoes completed the look.
Burberry: designer Daniel Lee
Look 39: a pink and blue heathered knit turtle-neck short dress with extra-long fringe.
Look 15: a yellow beaded dress with extra-long fringe from the hips to the floor over nude underwear.
Look 5: a grey slub silk pant suit; a two-button jacket and matching pants with extra-long black fringe hanging from the cuffs and waist.
Look 49: a bright orange sleeveless fishnet knitted dress with a fringed overlay and long white boots.
Seeing clearlySeveral designers showed transparent and revealing looks making liberal use of chiffon, tulle and other sheer fabrics.
16 Arlington: designer Marco Capaldo
Look 4: a sleeveless dress, covered in paillettes, made from translucent latex was shown over black underwear and a silver ballet slipper.
Look 11: a neon green turtle-necked tulle dress with a black rose insignia and a high/low hem over black underwear and thigh high black boots with a silver toe cap.
Look 5: a nude sequined corset under white tulle sashes and a long red asymmetric tulle skirt, a large black and silver earring and silver sandals, accessorized the look.
Look 39: a cream-colored chiffon dress with an elaborately embroidered bodice and layered skirt, accessorized with mis-matched earrings and silver slippers with a fan embellishment.
Look 49: a long sleeveless fit and flare sheer dress stuff with long-stem pink roses. Accessories included silver earrings and shoes with nude ribbons.
Fit to print
London designers have long been credited with creating innovative prints. This season is no exception with a series of eye-catching all-over designs.
Burberry: designer Daniel Lee
Look 31: a long-sleeved round necked dress with asymmetric zippers and hemline in a print featuring large blue strawberries, accessorized with white loafers.
Look 17: a white/brown and tan fit and flare halter-neck dress with deep vee front in an intricate scarf-print that included bicycles and cars. Accessories included espadrilles and silver cuffs.
Look 10: a long sheath dress with ¾ sleeves in a black and white flat floral design, accessorized with white opera gloves and pointed toed footwear.
Look 32: a high neck short sleeved smocked blouse and a matching ruffled skirt in a shadow poppy print. Accessories included white socks trimmed with black lace and white sandals with pink floral embellishment.
Look 20: a sleeveless long sheath dress in an oversized black and white floral print, accessorized with red satin shoes.