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Menswear FW23 runway collections: key color palettes

By Jayne Mountford


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Image: Louis Vuitton, Etro, Kenzo/ Launchmetrics Spotlight

The Milan and Paris menswear collections for fw23 concluded in January and certain colors and color palettes for tailoring, casualwear, activewear and outdoor wear have emerged as being key to any retail assortment for that season. Here are the highlights.

Autumn Leaves

A traditional autumn color palette is a men’s fashion perennial and the fw23 menswear season was no exception. This palette was used for tailored separates as well as casualwear.

Image: Etro fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

From Marco de Vincenzo at Etro, look 34 consisted of a fluid coat in checks of brown, tan, ochre and cream with a brown corduroy collar and leather covered buttons. This was shown over plaid pants in the same colors and a cardigan with a graphic pattern.Brown clogs completed the ensemble.

Image: Family First fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Family First Milano look 25 mixed ochre tones with pearl grey, brown, tan and rust for a variety of casual separates on two models.

Image: Dries van Noten fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

At Dries Van Noten, look 8 was an ochre colored mohair coat over a khaki shirt and dark brown pants with an ochre colored design. It was accessorized with ochre and brown snakeskin boots.

Rust Belt

Another key neutral palette was a combination of brown, tan and rust tones. This was used for casualwear and some more directional items.

Image: Amiri fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Amiri look 39 was pleather pants, a striped shirt, a patterned knit top and a faux fur blouson jacket: all in shades of brown, tan and rust.

Image: Dior Men fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Kim Jones for Dior Men showed a directional look: a fur-lined shiny brown jacket over a tan skirt accessorized with brown socks and boots for look 49.

Image: White Mountaineering fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

At White Mountaineering designed by Yosuke Aizawa, look 8 was a tan canvas coat with contrast border, a burgundy plaid puffy vest and brown pants.

Total look grey

Designers used head-to-toe grey to give activewear and casualwear separates a coordinated look.

Image: Fendi fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Hygge style was featured at Fendi, look 19 consisted of a fringe edged cape over a zip-up cardigan and slim pants; all in shades of light grey.

Image: Dolce & Gabbana fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Dolce & Gabbana look 43 had a similarly cosy appeal with thick wool separates over ribbed shorts, accessorized with a scarf and flat cap.

Image: Givenchy fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Matthew M. Williams for Givenchy look 23 was a sporty looking sweat suit with a. deconstructed third layer all in light grey.

Green Day

Designers found novel ways to ground bright shades of green in combination with neutrals and monochromes. This was used for casualwear, outerwear and street style.

Image: Louis Vuitton fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

At Louis Vuitton, Colm Dillane used highlighter green to pop a monogrammed puffy jacket in a neutral tone over a green cardigan and neutral colored pants.

Image: Dhruv Kapoor fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

In Milan, Dhruv Kapoor showed a canvas zip up jacket and matching pants. Both pieces were decorated with an abstract design in bright green, khaki, black and white for a striking street style look.

Image: Doublet fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Masayuki Ino at Doublet showed a bright green hooded puffy jacket over black separates for look 29.

Blue Mood

Designers used several shades of blue in their collections, but it was a bright shade of cobalt that stood out, especially for outdoor wear.

Image: Kenzo fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

For look 28 at Kenzo, Nigo showed a cobalt blue fleece with navy quilted sleeves and trim over a blue shirt with raised white stitching and wide leg dark blue denim jeans. One red button and buttonhole on the shirt and red clogs created a subtle pop.

Image: Rain fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

At Danish brand Rain, first look out was a hooded fleece long coat over a nylon quilted all-in-one and a wide zip front belt.

Image: courtesy K-Way R&D fw23

For look 18, outerwear brand K-Way R&D showed a long- haired faux fur duster in dark blue over cobalt blue nylon pants. A striped orange, yellow and blue balaclava was matched to a sweater in the same stripes.