Over 80 brands showed during New York Fashion Week for the SS23 season, which ran from Friday, September 9, to Wednesday, September 14. Among the various styles shown, there were several standouts. A harkening back to the late twentieth century and beginning of the twenty-first still resonates. Tiny crop tops above baggy pants was a signature look of the nineties shown this season by several designers. Piecing together various materials to create a collaged look can also be traced back to the nineties and in particular, the work of Xuly.Bet. In complete contrast, openwork body con looks over underwear were prevalent on many runways.
M65 Studio’s Spring Summer ‘23 collection was entitled ‘America Lost and Found’ and was an exploration of American ideology. Look 4 consisted of a logo tee shirt with a cream-colored embroidered transparent layer over a purple mini skirt. At Maryam Nassir Zadeh, a slip top in pale blue, and a pale green mini skirt, over a pink chiffon one legged pant.Italian brand Marni designed by Francesco Risso, preferred to show in New York this season. Look 51 was composed of a striped space dyed sweater with a laddered knit midriff band pinned to a fabric trim over full legged jeans with a painted overlay design.
At Jonathan Simkhai, a collection “inspired by the ocean and what lies beneath it,” rendered a similar aesthetic with shell-like motifs reinterpreted in crochet and beading. From Proenza Schouler, a series of crochet separates. For look 2 on Kendall Jenner, a white openwork skirt with a fringed hem over white panties matched to a fringed bra.
Bronx and Banco showed the ‘Burnt by the Sun’ collection which was filled with fringe, mesh, chainmail and openwork. Look 20 was an intricately constructed dress with a diamond shaped weave between rows of braided loops.
Designers continue to be inspired by the styles of the nineties and early millennium when a small cropped top over low riding baggy pants was a prevalent silhouette. Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada has made baggy cargo pants her signature style. There were several variations on display during her SS23 collection. Look 25 consisted of mauve cargo pants accessorized with a double belt teamed to a multi-colored knit cropped top with metallic cuffs. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta showed a SS23 collection filled with oversized silhouettes. Look 1 on Sarah Boursin consisted of terrycloth wide legged pants with a pleated front, drawstring waist and fringed trim teamed to a cropped metallic halter-neck.
Joseph Altuzarra’s collection ranged in silhouette from body conscious knits and layered looks to intricately embellished ponchos and oversized suits. For look 39 the designer showed pleat front wide leg pants with a button up hem. These were matched to a cropped vest with silver hardware.