Paris Fashion Week, which presented the men's spring/summer 2024 collections, has just come to a close. To get an idea of what it was like, we can draw a parallel with the Cannes Film Festival.
Front and centre were the 80 brands on the official FHCM calendar, playing the catwalk card (42) and presentations (38) to give themselves international exposure. Season after season, the trend is confirmed: the more celebrities present, the greater the media impact. In other words, the greater the return on investment (ROI) for the brand.
At this game, we can imagine, even before the data confirms it, that Louis Vuitton took the gold medal with its American-style show. It's impossible to surf social networks (Instagram, TikTok or Twitter) or google the word 'fashion week Paris' without coming across images or press articles about the show.
In 2022, Launchmetrics estimated Louis Vuitton's brand value for the men's collection at 16 million dollars. For June 2023, speculation is rife about the amount of investment into the show, with the unverifiable and probably exaggerated figure of 200 million euros being mentioned. If this figure proves accurate, it should be compared with the 229 million spent on organising the catwalks, presentations and other events during the six fashion weeks in 2017 (source: IFM).
Is the parade profitable? That's probably not the point. Good buzz or bad buzz (the privatisation of the public sphere and the use of fur), as long as we're talking about the brand. Or Pharrell Williams at all, since his presence at Loewe, carrying at arm's length his reinterpretation of the yellow monogrammed Louis Vuitton Speedy bag (already out of stock), and at Kenzo attracted the attention of his fans and thus created a double impact.
Loewe and Dior: International guest stars and breathtaking set designs to promote branding
The presence of South Korean pop singer Taeyong, with greying hair, influencer Emily Ratajkowski, Corey Mylchreest (Princess Charlotte) and Sébastian Stan (Gossip Girl, Once Upon a Time) all played a big part in raising the profile of the Loewe show by Jonathan Anderson. But what really caught our attention was the arrival of Omar Rudberg and Kit Connor, the heroes of Netflix’s Young Royals, a series whose story centred around wealthy young people is sure to appeal to the golden youth that the luxury brand targets.
As well as this line-up of newcomers, the idols of Gen Z, the Loewe show delighted spectators with its scenography - three gigantic fountains created by American artist Lynda Benglis, set in a central waterbed - and its wardrobe suggestions for night clubbers - full sequin looks, high-waisted trousers and XXL tops.