Spotlight on day 1 of NYFW

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) kicked off on Thursday morning, February 12th, 2015. With one of the most watched events on the entire fashion calendar every designer who had the privilege of sending something down the runway would do well to remember that one outfit could make an entire statement for the whole industry. Well, on Monday the industry saw several statements being made about functionality, the return of the 70’s, and the eternal need for a well tailored jacket.

NYFW kicked off with a show by Nicholas and Christopher Kunz, the design duo behind the brand Nicholas K. Many of the looks in the show were very dark, and it almost seemed as if they were costuming the lady version of the grim reaper. It was a breath of fresh air once the designers sent a white cape ensemble number down the runway, which had a very ephemeral quality to it. The design team was giving the public something functional for fall, and despite the gloomy quality to some of their clothes they were very functional. The beauty of Nicholas K’s collection was that everything was free and the models managed to move around so easily. It was a great collection for a woman who enjoys plenty of neutrals and has no designer to feel restricted in her clothes.

Buyers will be having their pick of coats, work wear, and colorful dresses

BCBG Max Azria’s show followed after Nicholas K, and it was a collection that showed the American woman at her finest. Everything was very subtle and very minimalist, and the Azria’s reminded the fashion community that functional clothes can still be artistic despite their lack of too wild colors and patterns. There were hints of fringe on white dresses, over the knee boots, and laser cut shearling to prevent the collection from being far too boring as well. It was a collection that was all about subtlety with just the right hints of flair for attention.

The designer from Monday that is on the absolute must watch list would have to be Richard Chai. His must have item of the season that department store buyers are sure to be clamoring for would have to be his coats, as the show was outerwear on end. The selection of coats included everything from a cashmere peacoat, a shearling coat with a fur hood, and duvet parkas for both men and women. Chai is proving himself to be a master of outerwear, and the public is responding accordingly.

Costello Tagliapietra presented one of the most clean looking collections of the day that was all about working woman. While the husband and husband team of Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra are usually known for their dress draping skills and film noir silhouettes, this collection was inspired by their personal love for plaid, suspenders, and khakis. This resulted in plaid silk printed blouses, high-waisted work wear pants, and black suspenders attached to pleated skirts. It was a collection sure to get the attention of women’s work wear buyers who are looking for something a little more exciting than black pants suits to fill the work section in their stores with.

Tadashi Shoji gave us plenty of beautiful looks this season, but the collection was lacking in cohesiveness. The show opened with a functional white dress, but then cut to large faux-fur jackets, gowns flowing with feather and tulle, and dresses that looked like they were bordering on couture. While the silhouettes were beautiful, the lack of cohesiveness in the collection could potentially work in Shoji’s favors, as buyers would look at his collection and could take individual pieces to be place anywhere from evening wear to ready-to-wear.

The surprise sensational show of the day would by far have to be Desigual, who in the past stuck to being very trendy, but this show was an explosion of color unique to them. The collection was very 70’s, with the tie dye looks, kaleidoscope style patterns, and hints of neon. It’s sure to be a very successful collection among the younger crowd, and the show even included Winnie Harlow of America’s Next Top Model Fame who is now the face of the brand. What better way to court young shoppers than with a reality television star?

Tome’s collection was trying to speak to the powerful woman, who enjoyed a striking look that would occasionally include a bit of color. There is sure to be no shortage of color among department stores and boutiques this season, with designers doing their share of neutrals, but looking for all the right places to throw in some color. The collection included everything from functional black turtlenecks, leopard print cropped jackets, the little black dress, and wearable work pants.

Last but certainly not least, the last designer for the evening was the forever dapper Todd Snyder. The collection included all the makings of a dapper gentleman from a belted wool trench coat, to well tailored suiting, and even a varsity jacket. He is sure to continue his reign at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Barneys, and Nordstrom, but after yesterday’s show we’ll see who else will be trying to pick him up as well. Being selected as one of the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund finalists in 2013 has certainly done plenty for his already booming brand and career, and he only seems to keep going up from here.