Weaving the story that Michael Fausto has to tell at NYFW SS25

With New York Fashion Week (NYFW) SS25 taking over the sidewalks of the city, the six-day event sees industry icons from Tory Burch to Ralph Lauren and Michael Kore presenting their upcoming collections. Alongside these fashion veterans, several newcomers, including New Jersey designer Michael Fausto, are showcasing their collections for the first time on the official NYFW schedule. His eponymous luxury women’s wear label is known for its fantastical designs that toe the line between myth and modernity. Garnering international acclaim, his designs have been worn by artists such as Adele, Halle Bailey, and actress Laverne Cox, to name a few.  Ahead of his NYFW presentation, where he will show his SS25 collection “Castellammare,” we spoke with the designer to learn more about his creative process, what to expect at his first official New York Fashion Week show, and what impact he hopes to have.

Where did your interest in fashion first begin? Have you always wanted to be a fashion designer?

Michael Fausto: "I've always been involved in the arts, some way or another, but wasn't sure how that would translate into a career path when I was younger. I realized at a certain point that my constant sketching, whether it be on a piece of homework or a restaurant's placemat, typically revolved around women and what they were wearing. This led to my interest in pursuing fashion design. However, while in high school I was academically driven as well and didn't want to sacrifice that part of myself in choosing a career path. After being accepted into FIT and Cornell, I felt as though I was at a crossroads in deciding on which to attend, unsure about what part of myself to invest in. Thankfully I chose to go to FIT and quickly realized that fashion design allowed me to engage all the aspects of my interests that I enjoyed. I found mathematics and geometry in pattern making, history and literature in collection development, and theater and art in design."

You honed your skills in the ateliers of renowned designers like Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa, and Badgley Mischka. How did these experiences shape you as a designer?

"Working for these designers allowed me to develop a thorough understanding of the various facets behind luxury fashion. From working with our sales departments on retailer's needs to fabric manipulations for collection development, each label gave me a stronger grasp of the life cycle behind the product you see on the runway or in a store. I found it important to make sure that in each position I was in, I was learning and growing as a designer. My design process now represents an amalgamation of these lessons, and I still continue to foster relationships with many of the contacts and vendors I collaborated with while working for these other brands."

You started your label in 2019, just before the pandemic hit. How did you navigate the early stages of your brand, and what lessons have you carried forward from that period?

"Launching Michael Fausto right before the pandemic was a humongous hurdle to overcome. The first order we secured was from a prestigious luxury retailer, and once the pandemic shut down NY, they had to cancel it even after we began production. No one was interested in dramatic evening wear from a young luxury brand, and I quickly had to adapt and evolve to continue. Our operations slowed down, and I learned to become extremely resourceful while also staying true to the brand's vision.

Using the leftover trimming and rolls of fabric from our first collections, I produced a ready-to-wear capsule of versatile day dresses that, while being accessibly priced, were still made in NYC. I did our lookbook shoot in my friend's backyard and somehow figured out how to do the model's makeup on my own. I taught myself how to create an e-commerce page and began marketing it anywhere and in any way I could. While today, our production and development are at a different scale, I still maintain the hustle and resourcefulness I gained in that period. To this day, you can still find my carting ball gowns on NJ Transit and cutting patterns on my parent's living room floor."

Your designs "center on the dichotomy of myth and modernity." How does this philosophy influence your creative process?

"My mother worked for ABC News for over 20 years, which is owned by Disney; so my childhood itself represented this dichotomy, where dinner table conversation of global affairs was often contrasted by hearing about whatever new fantasy movie was being released. My work is often informed by the fantasies I create in my head. I've always been drawn to the obscure, supernatural relics, legends of old, and worlds beyond our own. Drawing inspiration from these references allows me an almost mercurial foundation from which I can imagine and develop myths of my own. I do not feel chained down by a certain decade or other factors; I am granted the flexibility to mold a wondrous vision, which I present in my collection."

This season marks your debut on the official CFDA calendar for NYFW. How does it feel to be listed on the official calendar, and what can we expect from your upcoming presentation for SS25?

"Being listed on the official CFDA calendar has felt like a mark of validation. Not only for my brand's perception throughout the industry, but also for myself. After years of building a foundation for Michael Fausto, I am excited to show a thoroughly developed story that shows our muse in various facets of her life, from relaxing at the local lido to going to a gala at a noble family's palazzo."

Your SS25 collection, "Castellammare," follows the journey of an Italian debutante. How did this narrative of "la dolce vita" influence your design process?

"I had the opportunity to travel to Sicily this summer, visiting family and traveling throughout the various cities and towns. Connecting with my family in Palermo and visiting historic palazzos seen in stories such as Il Gattopardo, gave me insight into Sicily's unique aura. One that blends that ornate and baroque details throughout the historic island with a relaxed and somewhat provocative approach."

How do you blend the old and the new, the sleek and the ornate, in your SS25 collection?

"I think it is about the perception of these contrasting ideas, not approaching these themes with a need to modernize or embellish, but from what feels inspiring and appropriate to our woman. For example, we sourced a piece of antique Venetian lace for the collection which depicts mythical sea creatures and intricate filigree throughout. Featuring it in one of our more dramatic evening looks, we wanted it to feel like our muse unearthed something unique and special, and were excited to find a way to incorporate it into their wardrobe. To someone just uncovering these curiosities and heirlooms, what could be considered 'old' is new to them, and there is an excitement in that discovery."

NYFW is a major platform with immense visibility. How do you aim to use your SS25 presentation to leverage your brand's presence in NYC and globally?

"Over the past several years, I have been continuously weaving the story Michael Fausto has to tell. Each chapter builds upon the last and gives me the opportunity to expand the world I design within. When planning our presentation this season, I wanted to make sure I was capitalizing on this opportunity and bringing our story to various audiences that would help elevate the brand's presence. This season, we have put together a strong schedule of market appointments, interviews, outreach to influencers, and more. I understand that this opportunity is rare, and to utilize the platform I have even given, we are firing on all cylinders to promote the story we have to tell."

Your collections often evoke a sense of fantasy and modern-day heroism. How do you balance these imaginative elements with the practical needs and desires of your clientele?

"I think that it's important to understand the function of what you are making at it's core and build from there. For example, when working with a bridal client, before I begin sketching and ideating, I need to understand the wedding location, the time of year, etc., to inform the fantasy I design. It's easy to scale back a vision or add practical details, but the client needs to fall in love with the design first. From an editorial photo or hanging on a rack, the design needs to resonate with the fantasies clientele envision for themselves. Then, as they try it on and dive deeper into the style, they discover a comfortable bobinette inner bustier to hold their figure or detachable tulle sleeves to transition the look."

What would be your main piece of advice to emerging designers who wish to show their collections one day at NYFW?

"My boyfriend recently gave me a piece of advice that really stood out to me. When you try to melt a piece of ice, you see no progress going from 0 degrees to 31 degrees, but as you continue to get warmer, one subtle shift in degree can unlock huge change. There is so much progress beneath the surface that one cannot always see in themselves, but what is most important is to continue the work."