Rachel Arthur on why production volumes & incentives must change to reach sustainability goals

There are countless sustainability initiatives across the global fashion industry, but who is truly driving that transition? Are their efforts visible to the public or not? In this series, we interview changemakers, consultants, sustainability experts, and activists in fashion to see what we can learn from their work.

We speak with Rachel Arthur, strategist, consultant, and author for sustainable fashion and textiles. She has dedicated her career to driving sustainable change, including working as a consultant at the UN Environment Programme (UNEP). As an expert, she regularly shares her insights and commentary on sustainability issues from overproduction to implementing new business models.

1. Who are you and what is your background? How did you end up working in sustainable fashion?

Rachel: "I'm a journalist by training. I started my career in the newsroom, reporting on what was happening in the fashion industry from a business perspective. I worked at WGSN in trend forecasting for eight years, tracking and covering all kinds of signals of change, from e-commerce to social media, technology, digital transformation, and innovation, which over time evolved into sustainability. I started covering bioscience, new materials, blockchain, and traceability, which was my entry point into the sustainability space. Like many others on this side of the industry, once you've opened the door into this part of the world, there isn't really any turning back."

"Simultaneously, I started consulting independently, and I’ve been working in that capacity for the past ten years. I made a commitment to focus on projects that I genuinely believe are driving change and contributing towards transformation. That led me to the UN Environment Programme (UNEP) in 2020, where I have since been the Advocacy Lead for Sustainable Fashion. I also serve as a consultant for other organisations in different capacities. It’s been a really interesting time to be with UNEP as things have really scaled up since textiles were prioritized as a high-polluting industry, and since I helped form their theory of change for sustainability and circularity across the value chain."

2. What are some projects that you worked on and are currently working on that you can share with us?

"When I first started at UNEP, I was drafted to write a strategy about the role of communication for driving change and uptake of a more sustainable fashion sector. Published in 2021, it focused on the power of storytelling and the need to shift the industry’s narrative. Much of what is ‘wrong with fashion’ is baked into the narrative of that story, one built around the need for speed, newness, status, and social validation. In the process, the industry has drifted from its core foundations: people, nature, craftsmanship, care, and equity."

"Building on that, I then authored and published UNEP and the UNFCCC’s ‘Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook’ in 2023, a guide for consumer-facing communicators, from marketers and media to activists and educators. It outlines how to avoid greenwashing, reduce messaging that fuels overconsumption, and promote ways of engaging with fashion that align with environmental and social sustainability. At the time, there were limited conversations around overconsumption, yet it was evident that addressing production impacts alone is not enough when production volumes remain so high."

"I also authored a paper for Textile Exchange in 2024 called ‘Reimagining Growth’ that examines how the industry’s scale of production and consumption undermines its sustainability goals. It explores why an expansion-driven model is incompatible with those targets and unpacks the cultural and structural barriers that make this conversation so challenging."

"Today, much of my work builds on that systems perspective, identifying the levers, incentives, and frameworks that must shift to enable real change. Whether working with businesses, NGOs, or policymakers, the focus is on reshaping the underlying model, not just addressing surface-level symptoms."

3. What key changes have you seen over the past five years emerge in terms of circularity and sustainability?

"Over the past five years, there's been a real influx of people entering the sustainability space, which has been incredibly promising and motivating. In 2020, as COVID forced the world to a standstill, there was a powerful sense that "another way is possible." It gave us permission to question the system and rethink not only how we consume, but how we produce. From supporting workers to witnessing biodiversity return in places left untouched, it became clear that much of what fashion considered essential was in fact superfluous, and that sustainability was possible."

"The momentum continued through 2021 and 2022, with new targets, new roles, and regulatory progress fueling hope. But by last year, political conflict and economic downturn slowed that progress. We're now in what feels like a low point, where the work is harder than ever, and optimism can be difficult to hold onto. And yet, those of us in this space know we're on the right side of history. After a particularly discouraging start to 2025, the second half of the year brought renewed resolve."

"Now there’s a growing sense that we have to push forward regardless. What’s shifted over the past five years is that we’ve moved from talking about what needs to change to the much harder work of actually implementing it, all while navigating political and economic pressures that have made that process even more challenging. Still, there is positivity, meaningful progress, and cautious hope, with forecasts indicating that we’ll return to a stronger upward trajectory by 2027 or 2028, and that’s what I’m working toward. There is real positivity and meaningful progress underway."

4. Do you think that the industry is approaching a tipping point when it comes to circularity — or are we not there yet? Why?

"I’m not sure we’re at a tipping point yet. That may be wishful thinking, especially as larger systems are pushing against progress. We’re seeing funding pulled and advocacy organizations shut down. I’d like to believe that, in hindsight, we’ll say 2026 laid the groundwork for one, but we’re not there yet. We may have reached a low point and begun to edge upward, but a true tipping point still needs to be built."

"Now, though, we’re in the weeds, in the phase of doing the hard, technical work. The people deep in that work are amazing and deeply committed. The challenge is that the system doesn’t allow their efforts to scale enough to compete with the existing, more “unsustainable” model. Until we address that systemic barrier, real transformation won’t happen."

5. What are some real, actionable steps that you think the fashion and textile sector can take to accelerate real impact/change?

"From a systems-change perspective, there isn’t one simple action or model that one business can achieve alone. It requires complexity and alignment across the board, “everything, everywhere, all at once.” But fundamentally, the industry must confront its excess volumes. Not just waste or unsold stock, but the oversupply baked into the model, flooding the market and perpetuating obsolescence."

"To shift that, we need to rethink incentive structures and how we define value. That means integrating true pricing to reflect environmental and social costs, and addressing the production volumes that underpin what we currently call success, a model that ultimately cannot endure in the face of climate realities."

6. What role do collaboration and innovation play in driving systematic change across the fashion industry, in your opinion?

"Both are fundamental, but we need to be honest about what they really mean. We’re good at collaborating in theory, talking about what should be done, but far less effective at truly working together to drive change and back it financially. Some of the most critical issues, like production volumes and marketing, are difficult to address collectively because of competition laws, yet they still require open conversation."

"Innovation is essential. There are incredible solutions already emerging, from new materials to full life cycle models that address recycling, resale, and reuse. But innovation alone won't be enough unless it actively displaces virgin resource extraction. Ultimately, none of these circular models, recycling, or new technologies will scale without enforced regulation. The current voluntary system operates in a highly competitive landscape where those ignoring the "rules" often win. Regulation is needed to level the playing field so that doing the right thing is not a disadvantage, but the foundation for fair competition."

7. With 2026 now well underway, what are some of the main challenges in your opinion when it comes to implementing or scaling solutions capable of bringing about real change?

"I think there simply isn't enough of an enabling environment for circular models to scale. Policy incentives are limited, and therefore, the old, traditional way of operating is easier and cheaper, and there's still a perception that consumers aren't fully interested, which makes investment feel risky. It becomes a classic chicken-and-egg situation: brands say consumers aren't ready, so they don't invest, yet far more budget goes into traditional marketing than into promoting circular models. If that funding shifted, then you could drive more attention there, and demand could grow."

"There’s also a big awareness gap around what’s possible and accessible. Beyond that, supply chain fragmentation and lack of transparency add further complexity. But from a scaling perspective, the biggest barriers are policy, finance, and ultimately incentive structures. We still measure success by revenue and GDP, which reinforces the current system and doesn’t play into a world in which sustainability is more than possible. Yet many of the most interesting alternative models driving change don’t fit that metric. A local WhatsApp sharing group, for example, creates constant value exchange without generating revenue. People swap items, items get more use, and people benefit, but none of it appears on a national ledger. That challenges how we define value and what we recognize as success."

8. And what are some of the key opportunities or biggest advantages for the industry in scaling more sustainable solutions?

"I think there are tons of opportunities here, including entirely new types of businesses. We're often stuck in traditional models, but a new fashion ecosystem is already emerging, offering alternative ways. The growth of secondhand platforms like Vinted, Depop, eBay, and Vestiaire Collective, for example, proves there's massive consumer appetite and real commercial potential in doing fashion differently."

"At the same time, when we talk about producing less, the instant pushback on that conversation is concern over jobs in developing markets. I think we have to change that narrative. Addressing overproduction doesn't have to mean cutting livelihoods; it can mean creating higher-quality, better-paid work. This was a central focus in the ‘Reimagining Growth’ analysis for Textile Exchange: the importance of ensuring more than just a transition, and making sure efforts to tackle growth also protect workers and communities. Rather than framing this shift through fear, negativity, or controversy, we should be asking: what new opportunities could emerge, and how do we transform labor markets accordingly? We have to go there, and we can do it in a way that safeguards livelihoods, if we're willing to rethink the model."

9. How do you view the future of the fashion industry? Is your glass half full or half empty?

"I'm a glass-half-full person, but I'm also a realist. I feel very optimistic about the people who are focused on driving change because within the sustainability community, there's real momentum and a clear understanding of what needs to shift. However, the lack of political will is very present. Given the current political context, it's really challenging, as without policy on side, we won't get there. And while the 2030 and 2040 targets are urgent and daunting, the kind of systemic change we're talking about, especially around consumption, isn't an overnight fix."

"So I try to focus less on immediate wins and more on laying the groundwork for deeper, longer-term change, while still contributing to short-term emergency goals. That longer view helps me stay positive. Ultimately, the industry needs to do the same, moving beyond short-term thinking and quarterly returns toward building something that can truly last."

10. What final parting message or food for thought would you like to share with our readers, fashion executives, and industry professionals?

"On an individual level, I think we should all be asking ourselves what we can do to play our part. If you're not already driving change, how can you start within the role you have? That might mean transforming your job from the inside, shifting your career path, or making changes on a personal level."

"For the industry as a whole, though, it’s about zooming out. We have to confront the harder truth that the system we’re operating in is fundamentally destructive, and that the current model of “sustainability” often just reinforces business as usual. Unless we’re willing to collectively rethink that system, we won’t create the kind of change that’s actually needed."