The Wild Wild West: Beyoncé’s ‘Cowboy Carter’ and The Americana Trend

Politics in the USA has become so divisive that even the definition of what it means to be a patriot is at stake. For the past eight years, it has felt as if those on the right have appropriated not only that moniker but also the right to fly the ‘stars and stripes.’

What defines a patriot?

On the other hand, a counter-movement has emerged to reclaim what it means to be an American, and, as is so often the case, it has grown through music and fashion. Last year FashionUnited reported on the Coastal Cowgirl trend that gained popularity on TikTok and found a home at various musical events. Since its inception in 2007, the Californian festival Stagecoach has promoted country & western music stars, introducing the genre to a whole new audience.

Pharrell and the Wild Wild West

In January 2024, Pharrell Williams spoke about the little-known diversity of the Wild West era. After his FW24 menswear show for Louis Vuitton, Williams said, “When you see cowboys portrayed, you see only a few versions. You never really get to see what some of the original cowboys looked like. They looked like us, they looked like me. They looked Black. They looked Native American.”

Accordingly, he filled the show with Black, brown and white male and female models dressed in looks that married elements of the cowboy era with modern Louis Vuitton prints and accessories.

This ain’t Texas, ain't no hold 'em

During the lead-up to the release of her highly anticipated new album, Beyoncé let her clothing do the talking. It started with a custom Louis Vuitton look complete with a stetson at the 2024 Grammys.

Next up, all eyes were on her as she sat front row at the Luar FW24 show wearing Gaurav Gupta Couture, again topped off with a cowboy hat. With the release of the song, ‘Texas Hold-‘em,’ there was no doubt about her forthcoming foray into Country music.

When ‘Cowboy Carter’ was launched on March 29, 2024, a press release from her company, Parkwood Entertainment stated, "The album redefines and rebuilds what is Country and Americana, and who gets to be included,"

From The Runways

Signs that ’Cowboy Core’was on the rise in the luxury segment became clear in late 2023.

A few months before the Louis Vuitton men’s show, Fausto Puglisi, the current designer at Roberto Cavalli set the tone with a Pre-Fall 24 collection that included a cream suit embroidered with desert florals and a bandana print for other items such as a mega puffer and a maxi dress. Cowboy hats accessorized several of the looks.

The London designer, Molly Goddard is well-known for producing romantic looks created from layers of frothy tulle and ruched taffeta. However, for FW24 she also incorporated a handful of looks with decorated double-face knit faux Western shirts.

During Paris Fashion Week FW24, All eyes were on the Chloé show where Chemena Kamali made her debut. Included in a host of ‘seventies’ inspired designs were several elements of western wear, with a particular focus on fringe for jackets, pants and shoes.

A few designers showed chaps for FW24. Stella Mccartney incorporated them into pairs of jeans. At Sportmax, they were rendered in both black and brown leather in juxtaposition to tailored suits below.

Accessories including cowboy hats, belts and boots have been trending for several seasons now and will continue through the next year.