Protests and idealism: 5 trends for Spring/Summer 2021

The new decade is one of uncertainty and complexity, but also of limitless possibilities. It is these social tensions which will determine the trends of spring-summer 2021, according to trend analyst Christine Boland. Boland presented an extensive trend breakdown for the season this week during a seminar organized by Appletizer in Pakhuis de Zwijger.

"This decade will be decisive," Boland said. "The world can go two ways: towards power display, exclusion, polarization and black-and-white thinking, or towards empathy, creativity and dreams." According to Boland, this ambiguity translates into design, lifestyle and the catwalks, where both social criticism and idealism are important themes. Here are FashionUnited’s five trends that are characteristic of the new season.

Power display

The discussion about global power relations has emphatically shifted to the catwalk. For example, Balenciaga's SS20 show took place in a self-constructed, fictional European Parliament. In the spring of 2021, fashion and design specifically refer to male displays of power, with broad shoulders, square shapes, and references to utility wear and the uniform in 'European blue' or in neutral tones.

Protest and rebellion

A more pronounced rejection of ‘the system’ also manifests itself in fashion, with elements borrowed from the demonstration or protest culture. The trend is characterised by a provocative mix of influences and materials that turn fashion upside down, with bright, aggressive colours - or rainbow colours - as well as striking texts and tapes. As inspiration for the trend, Boland mentioned environmental activist Greta Thunberg and protest movements such as Extinction Rebellion.

The beauty of reuse

The urgent problems of over-consumption, waste surplus and the impending climate crisis encourage entrepreneurs to transform waste into something new and beautiful. Recycled plastic is increasingly becoming a key material for new products. Its colours and shapes can also inspire new textures and patterns. For example, fishnet structures recur in clothing and accessories, as well as brightly coloured, marble-like patterns, like fused plastic.

In harmony with nature

"Mother Nature is the role model for the new decade," said Boland. A renewed connection with nature is central to SS21. Typical for this is the interest in life in the countryside, in direct contact with nature - preferably also self-sufficient living (think for example of the film The Biggest Little Farm). In fashion and design, this is expressed in attention to natural materials such as wood and reeds as well as ticking stripes and lace.

Plenty of flowers

In line with the new love of nature lies a fascination with flowers. "Of course, flowers are always there", Boland agrees, "but this season it's especially about exotic, sculptural flowers that look almost like animal prints, and their counterparts: simple meadow flowers". Also an innovation in the field of flowers: complete outfits in floral print, like a walking field of flowers.

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.nl before being translated to English

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Main article image: Burberry SS20, courtesy of the brand